New year, new skin
Face creams and serums with Vitamin A and Alpha Hydroxy Acids really do work, and winter is the best time to use them
The description ‘new skin’ is not as far fetched as it sounds. There are, actually certain products which can, to a degree, offer us an almost new skin. Or at least a much better version of our old skin!
WHAT
These products contain either retinol, (a pure form of Vitamin A) or Retin A, Renova or retinyl palmitate. The other ingredients capable of giving us fresher, smoother or clearer skin are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) which include glycolic acid and lactic acid or Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) which is also known as salicylic acid. You may also see kojic acid, Vitamin C or fruit enzymes included as an ingredient in products for skin clearing, smoothing or for helping to fade brown pigmentation marks or wrinkles on the complexion.
The above ingredients are renowned for being a safe way of removing dead cells from the skin’s surface and promoting the formation of healthier, fresher skin cells in the dermis. They are also great ingredients for stimulating and increasing production of elastin and collagen in the dermis, which we all know is very important to delay that dreaded slackening of the skin.
HOW
Retinol and other forms of Vitamin A, or retinoids, were originally used by dermatologists and doctors to treat severe acne problems. It was later observed that Vitamin A had effective anti-wrinkle and rejuvenating effects in the deeper layers of the skin. Since then Vitamin A and its siblings (retinyl palmitate, Retin A, etc) have been researched, developed and become highly respected as one of the best anti-wrinkle and skin-smoothing ingredients in dermatology and the commercial beauty industry.
Depending on concentrations and how they are used by dermatologists or doctors, retinoids can be used to treat aged, dry and wrinkled skins, young oily, acne skins, scarring and hyper-pigmentation. This is also the case with fruit acids such as glycolic, salicylic, lactic and kojic acids. These are also excellent skin ‘re-surfacers’ and are indicated for use to help reduce lines, scarring, hyper-pigmentation and thick, dull or aged skins.
Vitamin C, kojic acid and hydroquinone tend to be included in products containing retinoids or fruit acids, for their pigmentation-fading abilities. Hydroquinone, however, seems to have lost favour in the industry and is being fazed out as it is now deemed not so safe for the skin.
WHO
If you are in your forties or over and want to give your complexion a real anti-ageing boost, or if you have pigmentation problems, mild scarring, brown marks left from spots, wrinkles, uneven skin tone or blocked or large pores, whatever your age, using a product containing the above ingredients can really help. If your problem is quite severe, it would be best to speak with a qualified dermatologist or an experienced beauty therapist first!
As far as using an over-the-counter commercial brand is concerned, it’s hard to go wrong as the concentrations of retinoids or fruit acids are pretty low and usually quite gentle. Anything stronger is usually only available on prescription or through a qualified dermatologist after examination of your face.
WHEN
The important thing to remember is that this is the time of year to use these products. This is partly because, although these types of products offer brilliant results, they do render the skin a little more sensitive to ultra violet light, so are best used in the winter. If there is a fair amount of sunshine around, use a sunscreen every morning while using retinoids or fruit acids, or stay out of the sun.
Many commercially available face creams, masks or serums contain a mixture of both retinoids and fruit acids to address ageing, wrinkles or hyper-pigmentation, with some also including skin-bleaching ingredients such as Vitamin C or kojic acid for an all-round, let’s hit this problem from every angle approach. As a very general guide though, think of fruit acids (glycolic, lactic, citric) as effective skin exfoliators to help smooth bumps, mild scars and to refine and thin the top dead layer of skin or epidermis. Salicylic acid is used for the same things but is suitable more for oily skin, blocked pores and blackheads and spots. Retinoids (Renova, Retin A, retinyl palmitate) tend to be more for thinning and refining skin at a deeper level to help ageing and wrinkled skins. If you are pregnant, however, you should not use products with retinoids in them and certainly avoid orally administered Vitamin A or acne treatments such as Ro-Accutane.
WHICH
With so many products on the market, it can be difficult to choose the product that is either just right for you or is a reputable brand in the first place! My opinion is to stick to the well known brands that have been around for many years, so that even if you are not a beauty product expert, you’ll be in safe hands. Well known beauty salon or pharmacy brands, especially French brands are, in my opinion the gentlest and safest on the market that I know of. Keep in mind that if you have dry skin you should go for a richer texture, and if you have young, oily or acne skin, you should choose your product texture accordingly.
FOR OILIER SKINS:
Guinot Beaute Neuve Cream
Murad Fruit acid range for combination skins
MD Formulations range (on-line or from UK salons)
Boots No.7 (UK)
FOR DRIER, OLDER OR ALL SKIN TYPES:
Guinot (beauty salons) Murad (beauty salons)
ROC (pharmacies) Rosveda (beauty therapists)
Vichy (pharmacies) Boots No 7
Erickson (beauty salons)
