The world of fine spirits

Luxury cognacs by Delamain

As it’s nearly Christmas and our minds turn inevitably towards spoiling ourselves, I thought this week we could have a little break from wine and consider the related world of cognac.

There is something about cognac that has always appealed to me, fitting me like the perfect tailor-made suit. I love the heady, rich aromas that waft as I swirl my snifter glass, and the warm, lingering finish. Having recently tried the family of Delamain cognacs, I must say that Delamain cognac is pure luxury exquisitely poured in a bottle.

Delamain Cognac is one of the oldest names in the Cognac region, and the story of the Delamain family is every bit as complex and interesting as their cognacs, beginning in 1759 when James Delamain joined his father-in-law, Jean Isaac Ranson in the cognac trade. Since then, when few businesses remain family owned, the House of Delamain holds the distinction of still being run by direct descendents of its founder. The name Delamain is widely respected, and Robert Delamain’s 1935 book The History of Cognac remains a sought-after guide about cognac.

What distinguishes Delamain from other cognacs? Delamain is in control from the very beginning of the process by purchasing only the best eaux-de-vie from micro-terroirs to ensure that the quality is met, all from the area of Grande Champagne in the Cognac region. Everything is tasted and only eaux-de-vie that meets their exacting standards make the grade. The process continues with ageing in old 350-litre French oak barrels in Delamain’s own cellars in the town of Jarnac. Their cellars have ideal conditions, and after ageing, special care is taken with the blending process that only blends similarly aged cognacs. The cognacs then rests for another two years in wood so it can reach its potential. Great effort is taken during the reduction process, after which the cognac is filtered, and the bottles are rinsed with cognac, filled, and then inspected for quality.
Below is a sample of the best Delamain cognacs, which I tasted recently during a presentation when Patrick Delamain was invited to Paphos by George Hadjikyriakos of Spectus.

Delamain “Pale & Dry” X.O. Tr?s Belle Grande Champagne Cognac 40% £49/ €83.72

The mainstay of the Delamain collection of cognacs, pale gold in colour, and blended from a range of cognacs averaging 25 years’ old. It has floral, vanilla and hazelnut aromas, with licorice and fruit on the palate, that when sipped at the end of a day is like a pat on the back for a job well done.

Delamain Vesper Grande Champagne Cognac 40% £72/€123, 02

A deep amber colour this cognac is blended form a range of cognacs averaging 35 years’ old and has woodsy, oak and vanilla notes, with wood and licorice on the lasting finish.

Delamain Tr?s V?n?rables Grande Champagne Cognac 40% £145/€247,75

This looks very enticing with its topaz colour and is blended from a range of cognacs averaging 45-50 years’ old. Toast, honey, cedar, woodsy aromas combine with licorice and fried fruits on the palate for a lasting finish.

Delamain Extra de Grande Champagne 40% £125/€213, 58

A topaz-gold colour, this cognac is older than the “Pale and Dry” X.O. and the Vesper, and it displays a rich maturity with aromas of cigar box and toffee and a velvety finish.
Some things are not meant to be shared and until recently the Delamain R?serve de la Famille Grand Champagne Cognac 43% was kept only for the family and their very fortunate friends. Luckily, you no longer need to be a member of the Delamain family to enjoy this cognac. However, you should still count yourself fortunate to enjoy this rare, unblended single-cask cognac. Delamain R?serve de la Famille Grand Champagne Cognac is a temptress aged 15 years by the grower and spends another 40 years in the Delamain cellars. It has dark chocolate, toffee, spicy, licorice and toast aromas, and dried prunes and layers of flavours on the palate. This crafted well-balanced cognac is aged and mellowed to perfection. Released infrequently and then in limited quantities, it is no wonder that they used to keep this exceptional Cognac for themselves. Price £190 €324, 63