Restaurant Review by Sarah Antoniou

Tender meat and balanced sauces

Consistently good food at Ganga

I’ll be honest. I was highly sceptical about having three Indian restaurants within a mile of each other and doubted the chances of finding each and every one of them to be good. As this was the last out of the three I had reviewed and the other two were good, my expectations were low.
I was soon proved wrong.

Approaching the restaurant I could see it looked like a popular place. Diners were almost all sitting outside, and the establishment looked a lot sleeker than I had imagined it would. The imposing corner setting and the bright green illuminated “open” sign led us inside.

Soft, but clear and distinct sounds of Indian music played as we stepped into the dimly lit interior. Tables were ready and smartly dressed. The dining area was elegant with a wooden floor and chairs upholstered in a deep red with trefoil pattern, floor-to-ceiling curtains at the windows, and Indian art. Everything felt clean, from the crisp white tablecloths covered with another in deep red, to the gleaming floor. Inside, the doorway is flanked by two almost life-sized male statues wearing large turbans.

My previous experience in the UK taught me that top-notch Indian restaurants were few and far between. But here in Larnaca there is proof that we should be taking our Indian restaurants seriously. These are not simple curry houses; they are Indian restaurants with aspirations.

The difference with Ganga is it seems to be the only local Indian which is run solely by Indians, which is always a very good sign. The male waiters wear flowing garments of knee-skimming flowing shirts over silky trousers, and the female waitresses are in traditional Indian dress. The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming.

We sat in front of a window which overlooked the kitchen, behind which we could see the chef busy at work and in front of the window stood what looked like a giant Aladdin’s lamp. The paper placemats proudly present a summary of India. Entitled “India at a Glance”, and including a map some interesting facts are listed such as India’s population of 1,000,000,000 (in 2000), the 325 languages spoken and 1,652 dialects. I discovered that India celebrates more than 65 festivals and it has been the world’s largest democracy for 55 years.

And the food? Our papadums came quickly with the three usual dips of mango chutney, yoghurt and a spicy tomato-based one which were all pleasing.

For starters I ordered a Pepper Chicken Tikka (£3.00) – tender pieces of chicken in a well-balanced sauce, and my dining partner a Fish Pakora (also £3.00) which was extremely moist This was fried fish at its best, served with a garnish of tomato, cucumber and fresh red onion strips, and presented on beautiful antique-looking dishes. A warming plate heated up with tea lights was placed in front of us in readiness for our next course.
After thoroughly enjoying both our starters we were soon tucking into our mains – a Chicken Tikka Masala (£7.50) and a Lamb Rogan Josh (£7.25).

The spice in the chicken dish spicing was well balanced and the flavours rich. My partner’s meltingly tender lamb had him expressing sounds of delight. Both meals were served with a generous amount of sauce.

As we tapped our toes to the upbeat Indian songs, we kept topping up our plates with the delicious dishes as well as our side orders of Bhindi Bhajee (okra dressed in a rich tomato sauce, £4.00) and Garlic Nan (£1.50). The mellow-yellow-coloured pilau rice was sweetly scented and perfectly seasoned, falling apart easily with no stickiness at all.

This is accomplished cooking, I thought. The service is adept and not over pushy, while the surroundings are comfortable and relaxed.
A first cousin of mine owns a successful restaurant in Manhattan. I asked him what the secret of a good restaurant is.

“Consistency,” he replied.

Subsequent visits to Ganga have proved to me that the same good service and food is offered here time and again. You have to wonder if the inhabitants of Larnaca appreciate what they’ve got. I certainly do.

Speciality: Indian
Where: Off Larnaca-Dhekelia Road, opposite Princess Hotel
Contact: 24 824949
Price: two-course dinner for two with drinks from £20