Unmissable Malta
There are few islands that can offer the abundance of fascinating history, vibrant nightlife and sheer number of things to do … and all within two hours of Cyprus
Malta is not the obvious choice to escape to when summer temperatures soar into discomfort levels on our own Mediterranean island, but I visited in July and found so much to do I didn’t think about the weather once. True, the thermometer recorded 30°C plus , and the countryside was as barren and brown as ours, but there all resemblance ceased.
Malta is a truly captivating destination, especially for a photographer like me who likes witty details, humorous happenchance and loads of local colour. We stayed with friends in Lija, one of the four ‘villages’ that make up the centre core of the island community. It’s one of the most picturesque, especially during festa time, when every available permanent fixture – and many imported especially for the period – is decorated with garlands, banners, fairy-lights and marble-effect pillars.
Lija is handy for just about everywhere on this island, less than one twentieth the size of Cyprus but crammed with a population of around 400,000 people – half that of Cyprus. You don’t go to Malta for the countryside – there isn’t much. But there’s a wonderful coastline and two outlying islands, Comino and Gozo. A trip to Gozo on the ferry passes the lovely coves of Comino and brings you to the southerly port of Mgurr.
To the north of Gozo lie three coastal villages with pleasant beaches and almost unpronounceable names – Marsalforn Bay, Xwieni Bay and Gahr il Qamh. Lunch at Marsalforn was delicious: fresh seafood, home-made pasta, speciality rabbit dishes and delicious steaks. Food is expensive, but quality is excellent. We ambled back through Gozo’s capital, Victoria, which was just gearing up for its annual festival of Santa Marija, which has its origins back in 1398. The crowds flock there from July 29 for 15 days of religious celebrations, horse races and carnival atmosphere.
Malta’s ancient capital, Mdina, is absolutely unmissable; a city so captivating that the Maltese proposed it be considered as one of the Seven Wonders of the World in the recent reassessment. It didn’t achieve the listing, but that doesn’t diminish its sheer wondrous quality.
The streets in Mdina were designed for horse-drawn carriages and the streets are narrow to conserve space; some little more than alleyways. Walking down these quiet narrow thoroughfares immediately takes you back to the time of the Knights of St John. One can almost hear the sound of horses and the clink of armour. You can spend hours exploring, from the fabulous Co-Cathedral of St John and its adjacent museum; the Norman-style Palazzo Falson built in 1495 and now revitalised with a ‘daily life’ exhibition; and the streets themselves, flanked with baroque buildings and fantastic architectural details. Mdina is also known as the Citta Notabile (Noble City), a nickname that derives from the many aristocratic Maltese families who still live there.
We returned to Mdina for a second visit, so powerful was the atmosphere. We also wanted to visit Ciapetti, a tiny courtyard restaurant which serves the Maltese specialities bagilla – crushed marinated broadbeans – with peppered hard goats’ cheese; local sundried tomatoes, olives and spicy sausage; ftira – bread – and garletti – local water biscuits. A traditional feast in the heart of this ancient city.
Another ‘must-see’ for us was the southerly fishing port of Marsaxlokk (pronounced Marsa-shlock) where the fishing fleet still goes out daily and life rumbles on at the same pace it did a hundred years ago. The fishermen take great pride in their boats, which are normally made from wood and extravagantly painted, and the harbour stretches down some several hundred yards from end to end, jam-packed with craft of every size.
On the way back to Lija we passed the vineyards of Marsalfin, one of the better-known Maltese wine-makers and decided we should at least taste their offering. But wine-tasting in Malta does not have the appeal that it does in Cyprus, where you can wander through the countryside and taste the produce of several different wine-makers in a day Iin Malta we merely bought a bottle in a quaint Sliema store and found it more than a bit wanting in comparison to our local brews.
But this was the only downside of our stay. Over the coming days we visited the Malta Aviation Museum at Ta’Qali, explored Valetta and its wonderful cathedral, sat in the main square and watched the pigeons deface noble statues and visited the new cruise centre and debated taking a harbour cruise in a small traditional ‘gondola’. Valetta harbour is huge and warrants days of exploration. On an earlier visit we stayed on one of the inlets at Vittoriosa and spent hours rambling in those narrow streets.
Malta has an exceptional history and the island’s claims to fame include the shipwreck of St Paul in AD60 – when the island converted to Christianity – and, 2,000 years later, winning the Victoria Cross for valour in resisting Italian air attacks in WW2; the only territory-– as opposed to person – to be so honoured. In between it has been occupied by Phoenicia, Carthage and Rome and fell to the Arabs in 870. It was conquered by Roger of Sicily in 1090 and remained in Sicilian hands until the 16th century when Holy Roman Emperor Charles V handed it over to the Knights of St John. After a Turkish attack 1565, the knights fortified the island and held it until 1798, when they surrendered to Napoleon. A truly chequered past and one, of course, that leaves behind much historical culture for the modern – tourist – invader to enjoy.
If history doesn’t turn you on, but activity, sport, retail therapy and nightlife do, then there’s no shortage of these in Malta, too. A golf course and several sailing clubs are open to non-members for a fee; there are cycle-tracks all over the island and bikes for hire make it an ideal way to explore. There are first-class hotels from St Julian’s all the way up the east coast to Paveville, and luxury resorts in Gozo offer spa treatments and more.
I’ve confessed before to a deep-seated disinterest in shopping, but I’m assured the retail opportunities in Sliema are matchless, as is the nightlife, which centres on the St Julian’s hotel area. Best of all the Maltese Tourist Board produces a wizard little booklet ‘Events’ every month, so you can catch up on the scene, be it the annual jazz festival, the arts festival or visiting entertainers.
Whatever your interests, don’t miss Malta!
Contacts
www.emirates.com – flights to Malta from Larnaca or www.skyscanner.net – flight planner
www.Europcar.com – best car-hire
www.whereonearthgroup.com – accommodation
www.visitmalta.com – tourist office
www.maltaculture.com – arts festival
