Riesling, the greatest wine from the Alsace region
Alsace is a beautiful region, tucked away as it is between the sheltering Vosges Mountains and the Rhine Valley in France’s northeast corner. The climate is dry – among the driest in France – and the days are sunny. Soils are varied and complex and suit the permitted grape varieties like a custom-fitted jacket. The architecture is charming and quaint, reminiscent of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. Alsace is home to some extraordinary wines – wines of complexity, richness and majesty. They offer a more thrilling tasting experience than almost any wines I know. I live and breathe; it sometimes seems, for my next glass of Gewurztraminer. Or Riesling. Or Tokay Pinot Gris
No doubt about it though, the greatest Alsace wine is Riesling, even if it is easier to produce great wines (albeit not quite as great) from the other varieties. Recently I have tasted two Rieslings from Domaine Meyer-Fonn?.
Katzenthal is located far into a valley, but the white bell tower reveals its location from far away. One does not end up in Katzenthal by accident although it is situated only a kilometre from the busy road that connects Colmar and Kaysersberg.
Overlooking Katzenthal, the ruins of the 13th century castle Wineck provides a spectacular landmark. It is surrounded by the Grand Cru Wineck-Schlossberg. Meyer-Fonn? is an ambitious firm that makes powerful wines from Kaefferkopf, Wineck-Schlossberg and several Lieux-dits.
Felix Meyer is without a doubt the most prolific pupil to come out of the great Leonard Humbrecht School. Now back at his Katzenthal family estate, which he runs with his brother Francois, he crafts sumptuous cuvees from his perfectly located plots of vines.
Wines of the Week
2001 Domaine Meyer-Fonn?, Phoeller, Riesling, Alsace, Alcohol Volume 13%
Medium-bodied, dry with a pale to medium gold colour. It has a very delicate, stylish nose – beautiful elegance. I find the nose slightly waxy with just a hint of malic and noticeable minerality. The aromas have hints of citrus and sweet apple, a honeyed Riesling fruit. Rich and full but this is not bone-dry. This wine has a lingering finish that is excellent. Very good now and should age for at least three more years. This beautiful wine is the ideal partner for a tarte tatin of cherry tomatoes with organic greens and a balsamic dressing. Serve at 7? to 9? C.
Available from: Le Sommelier
2005 Domaine Meyer-Fonn?, Vignoble de Katzenthal, Alsace AOC, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
For its price this wine has a fabulous fruit-acidity balance. Clear light straw colour with golden glints, it has a great concentration of vibrant Riesling fruit, with essence of Granny Smith cooking apples, white flowers and citrus. On the palate, crisp, dry, limey fruit with a back note of tangerine and intensely flavoured with crystallised citrus fruits, lemon and kumquat. Serve with fish, seafood, chicken poultry or veal, at 7? to 9? C.
Available from: Le Sommelier
2004 Domaine Ren? Mur?, C?te de Rouffach, Gew?rztraminer, Alcohol Volume 13%
The Mur? family vineyard is made up of approximate 20 ha of vineyards called Domaine du Clos Saint Landelin. The vineyard is located near Rouffach in Alsace. The Ren? Mur? wines, with the range C?te de Rouffach, express the fruit taste of the terroir. This light golden straw-coloured Gewurztraminer has exotic fruit, potpourri, apricots, ginger and clove. This light to medium-bodied wine is slightly sweet with slightly spicy fruit tart flavours and a long finish. Try it with Asian food, especially curry and ginger dishes at 7? to 9? C.
Available from: Vinum Spiritum
