The Miguel Torres family is one of the most famous names in Spanish wine. They also produce a fine range from vineyards in Chile
The Torres family name is so inextricably linked with Spanish wine that many wine lovers would be surprised to learn that just as the company was a pioneer in Spain, so it was in Chile. The first foreign wine company to buy vineyards in Chile, Torres’ association with the country dates back to the late 1970s, when Miguel Torres’ father decided they should invest in the country and sent his son to explore its length and breath with the aim of finding the perfect site.
Torres had the perfect traveling companion, Alejandro Parot, a Chilean oenologist with whom he had studied in Dijon in the 1960s. With Parot’s help, he decided upon Curic?, and purchased a winery with 120ha.
Determined to equip the rundown winery to modern standards, Torres shipped all the necessary equipment from Spain, including the stainless steel tanks. The aim from the start was to make a European style of wine – fresh reds and whites aged in new American oak. No-one was using US oak in Chile back then, everyone bought the local wood. At the start, the local market used to call Torres’ wines ‘wine for se?oritas’ but it heralded a new wave of winemaking focussing on a clean purity of fruit.
In the years since, Torres has expanded the vineyard holdings many times over and has gained an enviable reputation for his wines, which include the entry level Santa Digna range; Cordillera, a dark and meaty blend of non-irrigated Carignan with Syrah and Merlot; Manso de Velasco a Cabernet Sauvignon made from 100-year-old, low yielding vines, and Conde de Superunda, a new icon wine that blends Cabernet and Carn?m?re with the Spanish grapes Tempranillo and Monastrell.
Over in Spain, Torres has just released its first wine from outside Pened?s, and the same restless desire for new projects and exploration is mirrored in Chile. Five years ago the company bought 400ha in Empedrado, 180km from its base in Curic? and virgin territory as far as viticulture was concerned. In Chile there are climate changes but you find alluvium-clay-based soils everywhere. As Torres said in an interview, “we were looking for a less fertile, gravely area”. In Empedrado they hit upon a slate-like soil remarkably like those found in Priorat, Spain.
Soon we will taste the first wines as Torres is experimenting with a mix of international and Spanish varieties, transplanting old vines from Curic?. Torres seems more passionate than ever about making wine in Chile. This country, according to Torres, has “all the advantages of the New World – the freedom to blend and experiment” and they have just started to understand its terroirs. Plus, of course, the culture and language make it a natural expansion for the Torres family. He said, “the fantastic thing about Chile is that you can make great wines at a reasonable price”.
Wines of the week
2005 Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc Selection, Miguel Torres, Curico, Chile, Alcohol Volume 13.5%
The stone crosses that separate the landscapes from arable land symbolising fortune and prosperity are called Santa Digna. The vineyards are near the banks of Guaiquillo river. Fresh, with a pale gold colour, a floral wine with a blend of ripe tropical fruit, particularly melon, passion fruit and grapefruit and underlying hints of apple and fennel. An easy drinking, dry, crisp and full-flavoured Sauvignon that is more gutsy than many European Sauvignons and it bridges the gap well between New and Old world styles. The finish is sharp and prickly. Excellent complement to seafood, fish, broiled or baked, and rice dishes, served at 10?C.
2005 Santa Digna, Merlot, Reserve, Miguel Torres, Curico, Chile, Alcohol Volume 14%
A grape variety that has adapted well in Chile, this wine has aged for six months in American oak. A deep, bright red colour, plum, hard stone fruit, and blackberry jam compile the aromas on the nose. This opens with a bouquet of spicy notes of vanilla, mint and liquorice and a toasty character. Juicy, smooth but ripe palate, silky texture and integrated tannins with a hint of pepper on the finish. Pulses, it was particularly excellent with, including beans in tomato sauce, or try grilled meats, especially bacon, plus baked fish at 16? to 18?C.
2004 Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon, Miguel Torres, Central Valley, Chile, Alcohol Volume 14%
I like Cabs from the Central Valley in Chile and this one is no exception as it was produced on the Pacific coast. This is a darkly pigmented wine, ruby colour, with an intense, full and very fruity aroma. The complex nose offers blackberry fruit, leather, vanilla and a touch of liquorice along with toast and green tobacco. The wine shows juicy fruit characters leaning more towards redcurrant and cherry. It has a firm backbone and tightly knit tannins. As it is also aged for six months in American oak barrels, this results in a long, smooth, velvety finish. Serve with grilled steaks, empanadas, roast turkey and orange sauce at 18?C.
Imported and distributed by Ghalanos
