Largely overlooked, the world’s most populous country is actually a decent producer of wine
In Europe, Chinese wine has not always had a great reputation. The type exported was not the best. It was often said that the major mistake was that the winemakers ate the grapes first. In Cyprus, most of as do not even realise that there are vineyards in China, let alone ones that produce quality wine.
In fact, wine has a long and honorable tradition in China and some of it, especially the whites, is very palatable. High quality grapes were introduced into China in 200BC and Chinese grape wine (called putao jiu in Chinese) started about that time. This was not the only wine. There were wines made of sorghum, millet, rice and fruits, such as lychee or ume. These are not to be recommended to the Western palate.
Recently the wine trade in China has matured and over the past decade has produced white wine which is at worst very quaffable and at best truly excellent.
A French vintner named Alain Leroux arrived in China in 1996 with French grape vines and years of experience gained at various wineries in Burgundy, Alsace and C?te du Rh?ne. He claims that his wines stand up to those he helped produce in France, despite some hardships associated with China’s colder winters.
These wines have started to be exported and, as is to be expected, have met with the same early resistance of Australian, New Zealand, Chilean and Bulgarian wines. However, some critics have recognised a new frontier with the potential to yield some interesting finds. Others have simply taken notice that China is producing drinkable table wines the sell for £1 to £3 per bottle.
Perhaps the real market for Chinese wine is in China itself. Though demand in China has not reached high levels, if it did, this market would exceed the rest of the world, simply based on China’s population.
One of the largest producers of grape wine in China is the China Great Wall Wine Company, founded in 1983 and headquartered in the Shacheng region, Huailai County, Zhangjiakou, Hebei Province. Its annual wine production is 50,000 tones, which is a fairly substantial output. Now Chinese vineyard tourism has been launched by the China Alcoholic Drinks Industry Association. The purpose is to show China’s culture of vineyards and the main vineyards’ characteristics. These are the early days of the industry – beyond pioneering but a short way from total maturity – and such information tours will help it grow.
WINES OF THE WEEK
Rodis Herodotou comes from Lapithos and served for years in the police force. Since 1974 he has lived in Limassol, buying a storehouse in the middle of Omodos village. The name given was Linos, which in Greek translates as big store house for making wine. His first wine was made in the late 70s. After 1991 he bought land outside the village, to the south, and built new premises, a new winery with all the latest technology and a house he now lives in.
N/V Anely’s, Linos Winery, Geographical Indication Limassol, Alcohol Volume 11% has been certified by Lacon to be made from grapes that have not been treated with fertilizers or pesticides. Slightly pale and yellow green in colour, the nose is grassy, herbal with sweet geranium and lemony citric aromas. Light to medium bodied, crisp and slightly acidic but with a good mouth feel with a faint hint of minerals, grapefruit citric fruit and a pleasant, not too lingering, tart finish. Served at 8-10?C, this wine will match spaghetti in creamy mushroom sauce.
The Grenache based N/V Linos Ros? Dry, Geographical Indication Limassol, Alcohol Volume 12% is intense, clear, strawberry in colour with a fruity nose of strawberry and cherry followed by delicious mocha herbs and spices. Moderate, light-medium palate, dry with good acidity, earthy, orange peel and racy watermelon aromas. It will enhance summer outdoor meals – pork chops and spare ribs in particular – equally appealing to have a glass on its own at 9?C.
2003 Linos Cabernet Sauvignon, Geographical Indicaton Limassol, Alcohol Volume 13% We applaud the effort on this single red varietal, intense, deep red typical of Cabernet with concentrated blackberry and blackcurrant, dark chocolate, a hint of sage and black olive. The tannin is soft but substantial on this medium to full bodied wine. Not terribly complex, balanced with medium blackcurrant fruit and a touch peppery. Enjoy now with roast beef or slightly chilled at 16? with lasagna.
From Linos Winery at Omodos
