Published by Murdoch Books
Right now, the mere twisting of a noodle around a fork sounds too much like hard work. But being a self-confessed pasta fetishist, the temptation to delve deep into this weighty tome of yet more and, apparently, ‘essential’ doughy secrets quickly got the better of me.
Every kitchen has its well-trodden repertoire of pasta recipes, executed with eyes closed when the hungry hordes need to be fed or mollycoddled at a moment’s notice. You will inevitably encounter some of yours here, be it the classic Bolognese, Alfredo or Carbonara, the fragrant Pesto or the saucy Puttanesca. What I hoped for, however, was a new experience, one that had not escaped from all those other pasta books one has collided with over the years, and which could become next season’s comfort food, claiming a place in the family annals. You know, to feel a bit like Marco Polo when he first sat across a bowl of Chinese noodles.
It quickly transpired that this book was not going to break much new ground. There is no single chef here to toss in his ego with a variety of incongruous ingredients and see what comes out. Instead, an entire team of home economists, recipe developers, photographers and stylists lie modestly behind the project, pooling their efforts together to deliver a unified product. So much the better, I thought: thorough research, no ego trips. From the very sole of Italy’s heel to the snobby towns of Lombardy, pasta has over the centuries been given countless, lip-smacking incarnations that would need at least another lifetime to explore, so why tinker? One just loves returning to a Cream of Onion Pasta, some Spaghetti with Creamy Lemon Sauce, or Linguine with Gorgonzola and Toasted Walnuts. And one is amused by more recent twists bringing New World ingredients to cavort with timeless Mediterranean fare: Chicken Ravioli with Lime Balsamic Dressing, Lemon Grass and Lime Scallop Pasta, a side Salad of Ginger, Carrots and Sesame.
What about the holy pasta grail, though, the little surprise that’s meant to leap out of the pages into our stew pot and simmer there reassuringly for years to come? It could yet happen for me in the shape of Tagliatelle with Tomato, White Wine and Walnuts or Semolina Gnocchi with Rich Cheese Sauce. But I guess I won’t know until the season comes to pass and I can twist my fork again.
The Essential Pasta Cookbook is published by Murdoch Books and is available from Moufflon Bookshops (£13.65)
Recipe
Green Olive and Aubergine Toss
Serves 4
500g fetuccine or tagliatelle
175g green olives
1 large aubergine
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
125ml lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
50g freshly grated parmesan
l Cook the pasta in a large pan of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and return to the pan.
l While the pasta is cooking, slice the olives and cut the aubergine into small cubes.
l Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying-pan. Add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Add the aubergine and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 6 minutes or until tender. Add the olives, lemon juice and salt and pepper, to taste. Add the sauce to the pasta and toss. Sprinkle with parsley and grated parmesan.
