Food of the ancient Greeks
Mastiha or mastic gum is unique to the island of Chios but as its international fame spreads, a store dedicated to its products has opened in Nicosia
When I was younger I had a friend whose mum was from a small Greek island and was immensely proud of her heritage. She cooked like there was no tomorrow, talked of ancient philosophy like there was no other truth in the world, and never ever accepted ‘no’ as an answer to anything. In their house, I was offered pure mastic chewing gum – little, transparent crystals that soften when chewed stored in small glass bottles. But my taste buds just couldn’t handle the flavour and I desperately tried to find ways of disposing of it without appearing rude. “It’s great for the teeth!” they would tell me with a big smile. Try explaining to a ten-year-old that something is good for them and they’re likely to run a mile!
Now I’ve grown to adore mastiha and every time I go abroad, I board the plane with packets of Elma chewing gum falling out of my hand luggage for fear of running out while on my travels. The Ancient Greeks used mastiha to cure bellyaches, Roman Emperors used it to spice their wine, and harem ladies of the Sultan used it to beautify themselves.
Originating from the island of Chios, mastiha has a 2,500-year-old history. It comes from a thick, semi-transparent sap from lentisk evergreen trees cultivated on the island. As resinous granules, it was the earliest form of chewing gum and the name ‘mastiha’ comes from the word ‘masticate,’ meaning ‘to chew’. When chewed on for a while, the resin becomes bright white and opaque. Cultivated in special mastic villages, Chios is the only place in the world where mastiha trees produce resin as plentiful and pure. Amazingly enough, even though many people have tried to produce mastiha, it’s impossible to grow anywhere else.
In ancient times Greek and Roman doctors such as Hippocrates, Galen and Dioscorides studied the beneficial attributes of mastiha resin. Great historians also recorded numerous references and information on the various uses of mastiha in ancient Carthage, Egypt and Arabia. In Roman times, Emperor Heliogavalus blended mastiha essential oil with wine for the first time and produced ‘masticatum’. Even the ladies of the Roman aristocracy loved the stuff as they used toothpicks made from wood of the mastiha tree as a teeth whitener, a practice that continued until the Middle Ages in France, England, Holland and Spain.
The Genoese occupation of Chios between 1346 and 1566, marked a whole new era in the mastiha trade. The restless Genoese traders systematically organised and tightly controlled the trade of the precious resin, bringing mastiha to the big markets of the east and west. Mastiha gained wonderful prestige and travelled to the major cities of the famous trading routes of the time. From Cyprus to Alexandria, Venice to Marseille, the product became renowned and highly sought after.
Recent studies conducted at the University of Nottingham reveal that consumed even in small quantities, mastiha can completely cure stomach ulcers. Extensive research has also been carried out on the activity of mastiha’s essential oil, with a positive effect on cardiac and inflammatory conditions. Recent evidence of its positive effect on ulcers has resulted in a huge boom in purchases by large pharmaceutical companies.
In summer 2002 an up-market ‘Mastiha Shop’ was opened in Chios, functioning as the official shop of the Chios Mastiha Growers Association. It was an immediate success, luring in tourists curious to try out the locally-produced natural products.
Branches are now opening up around the world, with shops soon to arrive in Paris and New York. Never too far behind, the Mastiha Shop has recently appeared on the scene in Nicosia. Walking into the shop, I was amazed by what’s available – the shelves are lined with products wrapped in beautiful packages, evoking 19th and early 20th century Greece.
Being a woman, I unashamedly admit that my eyes immediately drifted towards the wide range of beauty products on show. It can’t be a coincidence that when Chios was ruled by the Ottoman Empire the finest quality mastiha of each year’s harvest was sent to the Sultan in Constantinople for the 300 ladies of his harem. If it was good enough for them, it must be good enough for us. It’s now used in cosmetics for it’s great anti-bacterial, deep cleansing and healing properties.
Korres Cosmetic Company has recently created products using pure mastiha oil that can only be found in the official ‘Mastiha Shops’ around the world. From anti-acne cream with mastiha oil and citrus fruits, mastiha oil and advocado night cream and mastiha oil and grape seed eye cream, there’s just about everything to pamper yourself with. What’s the second thing a woman’s eye wanders towards when all the cosmetics have been tried and tested? Chocolate and sweets of course! Yes, there are shelves loaded with all things delicious from traditional pastelli, caramels and toffees, and loukoumia flavoured with mastiha, rose and bergamont.
And then there’s all the other interesting food. Jars of green olives, homemade tomato sauces, and olive oil flavoured with mastiha leaves are a few of the things that caught my eye. Other shelves are lined with traditional drinks in charming bottles such as ‘Chios Mastiha Liquor’ and ‘Mastiha Ouzo’. Cheers to the wonderful discoveries of ancient Greece!
Mastiha Shop
9D Themistoklis Dervis Avenue, Nicosia. Monday-Friday 9am-1pm and 2.30pm-6pm. Wednesday and Saturday 9am-2pm. Tel: 22-445690
Tried and tested
Mastiha chocolate
How could I resist these? Being a huge fan of all things sweet, I was amazed to discover a type of chocolate I would never have imagined exists. OK, I was a little hesitant when unwrapping this one, but it was actually really tasty. It may take a bit of getting used to as you bite through the hard chocolate and are greeted with chewy mastiha. But with five flavours to chose from, there’s bound to be a few that tickle your fancy.
Mastiha Body Butter
Beautifully rich cream that makes your skin lovely and soft. What’s more it leaves you smelling like mastiha all day long. Great if you love the stuff, but give it a miss if you’re not too keen on the scent.
Elma Sugar Free Gum
Mastiha is excellent for oral hygiene as it acts as an antiseptic for the mouth. This chewing gum combines every category of ingredient found to be effective in fighting major enemies of dental health. It freshens breath, whitens teeth and tastes delicious! Great to have after a meal, but I could just keep on chewing it all day long. Unlike most gums on the market today, it keeps its taste for ages.
Mastiha Toothpaste
Many toothpastes and mouthwashes have mastiha as their main ingredient. Its use ensures dental plaque build-up control and protects from cavities, gingivitis and periodontitis. I’m sure you get the picture. Also, mastiha toothpaste prevents and fights the bad breath.
Mastiha Ipovrihio
I’m told that this is the most popular product in the shop as most Cypriots identify with this sweet that is especially loved by the older generation. Known as the ‘submarine’, the sweet mastiha is served completely submerged in water.
Natural Chios Mastiha Powder
A natural product proved to help with stomach health and combat ulcers. Can be used as a dietary supplement on a daily basis.
Did you know?
l In Cyprus and the Arab Countries, mastiha is considered the most essential spice. In Cyprus they even flavour bread with mastic gum
l Arabs consider it a great luxury to flavour their food, sweets, and even milk with mastiha, a fact that can be attributed to references made in their sacred books
l During the 1960s, mastiha was exported to Germany i
n large quantities and used in the shoeshine industry
l Mastiha has been proven to absorb cholesterol therefore diminishing the chances of heart attacks and high blood pressure
l Today the French buy distilled mastiha oil for perfumes. Much of what you find on the shelves of beauty shops contains traces of pure Chios mastiha
