Enticing reds from Spain
Wines from the Ribera del Duero are expensive but generally considered worth it
Arguably the most exciting red-wine region of Spain right now is the Ribera del Duero. Its chalky terrain, high altitude, warm summer days, cool nights, short growing season and cold winters make it ideal for the production of fine wines.
It has one or two outstanding producers, in particular the fabled Vega Sicilia, which goes back to the last century and is probably Spain’s greatest (and most expensive I believe) wine, and the more recently established Bodegas Pesquera.
Both have demonstrated that outstanding red wines of power, complexity and balance can be made in the region. Now others are following suit and the region’s wines are already recognised in Spain as expensive but worth it, even when they don’t carry the Vega Sicilia or Pesquera label.
The Denomination de Origen region of the Ribera del Duero lies on either of the river Duero (the same river is known as the Douro in Portugal). It refers to red and some ros? wines but no whites. It is to the east of Valladolid and the wine regions of Toro and Rueda, which are also watered by the Duero on its long journey through the uplands of Castile across the border into Portugal and on to the Atlantic. The elevation above sea level of much of the region (700-800m), its temperate climate and the poor, often chalky, soil helps to produce low yields and consequently wines of depth and concentration.
The region’s fame may have been founded on the success of Vega Sicilia, which has used the Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec for more than 100 years, but it is the grape known as Tinto Fino or Tinta del Pais upon which the fortunes of the region rest. This is a clone of the Spanish grape Tempranillo, which gives distinction to the wines of Rioja, and to other wines of Spain.
The classic French grapes, though permitted by the Denominanci?n de Origen (DO), may not be planted unless they replace existing vines of the same varieties.
Tempranillo (or its clones) is the recommended and dominant grape of the region, where it performs extremely well. Other grapes that are permitted and used to a lesser degree are Garnacha Tinta, used largely for ros? wines, and Albillo, which is used in some instances to lighten the colour of the wine. The styles of wine prescribed by the DO and found on the label are:
V?no Joven (young wine) a basic wine from the region, but one which is not usually aged in oak.
V?no de Crianza to carry this term on the label, a wine must spend at least a year in oak. It cannot be released until December 1 of the second year after the vintage.
V?no de Reserva requires three years in the cellar, of which at least one must be in oak.
V?no de Gran Reserva this may be produced only in exceptional vintage years. It must spend at least two years in oak and three in bottle before release on 1 December of the fifth year after vintage.
Wines of the week
Established in 1984 by the family Garc?a Viadero, Bodegas Valduero was one of the first Bodegas in Ribera del Duero, actually in Gumiel del Mercado, a small village in the country of Burgos, located 15km northwest of Aranda de Duero right on the DO Ribera del Duero.
2001 Vi?a Valduero, Crianza, Ribera del Duero, DO, Spain
Stunning wine made of 100% Tinto Fino. Vibrant, deep red ruby colour, bramble fruit aromas balanced with spiciness and balsamic tones that improve with air. This lovely spicy oak mingles perfectly with soft ripe red fruit, on the palate it is wonderfully velvety and well structured. Medium bodied, good tannic backbone more bramble and black fruits, oak and good acidity. Long finish.
1998 Vi?a Valduero, Reserva, Ribera del Duero, DO, Spain
This wine spends a total of 20 months in oak. The grapes used are 95% Tinto Fino and 5% Albillo. Cherry red appearance, the aroma (blackberry and raspberry) is intense and complex with a beautiful, spicy woodland, wild fruit bouquet, chocolate and coffee. The oak influence is obvious. On the palate this is an extremely rich wine, full bodied with lots of plumy and vanilla flavours showing its class and breeding. Well balanced tannins and acidity. A complex and mature wine.
Both wines are food friendly. Serve with game, roast lamb, pork loins and potato dishes – try this with Spanish potato omelet. Crianza is good for pairing with tapas.
Bodegas Valduero wines are imported and distributed by La Maison du Vin in Limassol and Nicosia.
