It’s all Greek to me
In the first part of a series on wines from Greece, we look at the wines of Domaine Lazaridi
I have wanted to write about Greek wines for quite a while. After this year’s early summer wine tastings I thought it would be my next feature; needles to say, it wasn’t. Writing about some lovely Greek reds was not appropriate so I didn’t do it. Why not write about Greek white wines, perfect for the summer, I thought. Throughout summer I have addressed other subjects, with the exception of Crete. Humidity caused a mental block.
I am sure that my own introduction to Greek wines is similar to many of yours: Retsina – even the name makes my mouth pucker. But it was London in the late 70s, where I used to work as a part-time waiter in a Greek restaurant. At that time most of us also thought that Liebfraumilch epitomised German wine and Chianti in straw-covered flasks represented Italy’s best.
Greece, like most of the wine-producing countries, is participating in the modern wine world’s efforts to elevate the quality of and ensure the consistency of its wines. For example, major producers like Tsantalis, Kourtakis and Boutari maintain some extremely modern wineries using state-of-the-art technology. Other estates, such as Domaine Carras, developed with help from Bordeaux’s famous oenologist Emile Peynaud, while Domaine Lazaridi is experimenting with blends of native Greek and imported French varieties.
With the arrival of European Union, Greek wine laws are being made to conform to those of other member countries. Thus, it’s not unusual these days to find terms like “Appellation D’Origin de Qualite Superieur” or even “Vin de Pays” along with their Greek equivalents on wine labels.
One wine maker I have always admired was marble mogul Kostas Lazaridis with his Bordeaux Ch?teau-inspired estate in Drama, yes, the one with the imposing tower. The estate continues to grow today, and if you participate in any of the organised tours you may discover what an impressive property this is – a world-class winery, aiming to produce world-class wine. The spectacular underground cask cellar and bottle ageing bins are temperature and humidity-controlled, and the vineyards are green harvested.
The estate emphasis is on the cosmopolitan varieties to the Greek cultivars such as Assyrtiko, a red of Roditis and Robola. The oenologist of Domaine Lazaridis has tried Sauvignon Blanc as a varietal, but it lacked body. Assyrtiko was added to the blend, which carries Sauvignon, and allows it to express itself in the aftertaste. The wines are gaining depth as the vineyards gain maturity and up-front fruit shows in all Lazaridis wines.
Balanced assiduous cask-ageing now concentrates on Allied oak (low, medium and high toasting) from three French coopers. The Amethysts Cava is the estate’s most successful effort for a Vin de garde.
Date for your Diary
The Oak Tree wine cellar and Mantovani Plotin Travel have combined their expertise to offer a unique range of excursions. The next gastronomic excursion will be to the region of Veneto in north eastern Italy. Enjoy for four days and nights, the food, the wine and the culture of this beautiful region. Meet the Speri family (famous winemakers of Veneto) and enjoy their wine with great food. Day tours to Venice and Lake Garda. Dates 22–26/9. Participants will be based in the ancient town of Verona. £590 plus airport taxes for double room, £630 for single. Call Mantovani Plotin 24 843434/25 32900 or The Oak Tree wine cellar 24 815044, 99 627037
Wines of the week
2005 Amethystos, Regional dry white wine of Drama, Costas Lazaridis Winery, Alcohol volume 12.5%
A wonderful blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc with 15% Semillon and 15% Assyrtiko. Slightly green at first, both in colour – yellowish green – and in fruit. There are no typical leanings here, with balance from the Semillon, but no invasive syrup. This wine has plenty of body and structure, more skin extract than overt fruit and a long finish. It is a distinct and modern wine, citrus, peachy and aromatic. Amethystos served between 7? and 9? C begs for hot fried calamari with a chilled dipping sauce.
2003 Ch?teau Julia, Chardonnay, Regional Wine of Drama, Costas Lazaridis Winery, Alcohol Volume 13.5 %
A northern Greece Chardonnay that meets international standards. The round fruit of this straw yellow Chardonnay is well framed by acidity. Pear, pineapple and banana flavours on the nose and on the palate. On the palate also is full bodied and slightly buttery, served at 9 to 11?C with all the cold seafood you can muster this summer, salmon with some creamy spicy sauce will do well too.
Cosmos Trading imports and distributes Costas Lazaridis wines
