Kosher wines
The wines of Israel deserve their place on the world stage
Stavros Liodis is, above all, a wine connoisseur. He is one of the few people I have met who is as passionate about wine as I am. Wine for him is something almost spiritual, so I was not surprised that the name of his wine shop is ‘Vinum Spiritus’. It was Stavros’ idea, when I visited his cava, to try some wines from the Golan Heights and Upper Galilee in Israel. And I was astonished.
Whether Israeli wines and the wine awareness of the public have undergone a revolution or merely an awakening is something for linguists and wine lovers to debate, but there can be no question that the wine that put Israel firmly and squarely on the on the international wine agenda was the 1983 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon from the then fledgling Golan Heights Winery. When it was first released most people could not believe it was Israeli.
In the intervening years, the winery has released a host of wines (Katzrin, Yarden Gamla and Golan) and continues to produce wines that are often acclaimed for their excellence. To the Golan Winery goes credit for two major advances – demonstrating that Israel was part of the New World wine phenomenon and that there is no inherent contradiction between fine and kosher wines.
The story began when the Golan Heights was identified as ideal for the production of premium wine grapes. The volcanic soil provided excellent drainage, the climate was relatively cool, allowing a long growing season, and water was readily available for drip irrigation in the summer. The pioneering moshavs and kibbutzes first planted vines in 1976 and initially the grapes were sold to the large coastal cooperatives. However, local experimental winemaking in 1982 produced results that showed potential and the winery was built the following year.
Today, the Golan Winery is a company owned by four kibbutzes and four moshavs. They manage the vineyards, which rise from near the Sea of Galilee to the foot of the snow-capped Mount Hermon. However, growers receive detailed guidelines from the winery, which maintains strict control of vineyard activity throughout the year. They are assisted by a network of meteorological stations in the vineyards yielding climate data. This constant supervision ensures that the maximum potential of quality is realised in each vineyard.
The chief winemaker is Victor Schoenfeld, a graduate of the University of California at Davis. His team includes three associates, professional winemakers educated in California, Burgundy and Bordeaux. The winemakers ensure that the special benefits of the grapes from the Golan Heights are transferred into the many wines they produce under the labels Yarden, Gamla and Golan. The Golan Heights winery has not only raised the standard of Israel wines, but has also allowed Israel to compete on the world stage on quality alone.
Wine of the week
2002 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon, Galilee, Golan Heights Winery, Israel Alcohol Volume 14%
Yarden is the Hebrew for Jordan River, which bisects the Golan Heights and Galilee. The label features a symbol of ancient Israel, an oil lamp decorated with mosaic tiles. Dark and almost ripe, Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits ripe cherry, bright berry and deep plum notes, layered with aromatic spice, rich oak and hints of fresh herbs. The wine is full-bodied yet elegant with a long, complex flavourful finish. This wine, at 18?C, will complement intensely-flavoured foods, such as boneless leg of lamb stuffed with mixed wild mushroom and roasted sirloin with red wine reduction. Drink now, but it can age for a couple more years.
Additionally, Golan is a brand representing affordable, young, quality wines providing excellent value for money. The painting on the label is an artist’s impression of the Golan Heights in the spring. The 2004 Sion Creek White is made of four grape varieties: Sauvignon Blanc, Gew?rztraminer, Johannisberg Riesling, and Muscat of Alexandria. A combination of tropical and citrus fruit with notes of fresh flowers and light spices. Medium body, it possesses a touch of sweetness. You can enjoy this wine as an aperitif or with foods with a bit of spicy heat to them such as Mexican and Thai. Try also the 2004 Sion Creek red (Sangiovese, Syrah, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, and Napa Gamay). Aromatic fresh berry, cherry, violet and black pepper notes, medium-body. Drink now slightly chilled with full-flavoured fish dishes, dim sum, mixed grilled vegetables and shredded beef tacos
Vinum Spiritus. Tel: 22 460603
