Getting the balance right
If you ever struggle over what wine to serve with Oriental food, a promotion at the Almyra, combining local wine with a seven-course Japanese meal, could be for you
Omakase is a Japanese word that literally means ‘entrusting’. It is most commonly heard in Japanese restaurants, where regulars will simply say omakase. This means they are putting their total trust in the chef and will eat what is brought out.
Others may well consider this a rather scary concept given the range of bizarre dishes available in a Japanese kitchen, but by ordering omakase, the faith put in the chef must be returned by him producing his best to satisfy this level of confidence.
The key elements that define top-class Japanese cooking are flavour, taste, temperature, texture and beauty. Another element is the question of balance, which can sometimes be a bit over the top. This method of eating in Japan has, over the years, grown such that presentation of food is now nearly as important as taste.
Rob Shipman, executive chef at the Almyra, is one of the ‘young bloods’ of Japanese cooking, coming with an impeccable history including time spent at the wonderful London Nobu chain of Japanese restaurants, where he honed his passion for this type of food. At the Almyra he now combines local Mediterranean flavours and ingredients with his classical Japanese recipes.
Shipman has built up a devoted following of diners who relish his dishes. He is also considered to be one of the most outstanding chefs on the island. His style of cooking is a blend of supposedly complex flavours that are light on sophisticated techniques and pretension.
For those who consider eating hotel food a cue to leave your taste buds at the door, prepare for a pleasant surprise at the Almyra for the poolside Notios restaurant has become something of a hallowed ground for food enthusiasts.
Shipman creates his Omakase menu in partnership with Tsiakkas winery, offering diners a seven-course dinner that guarantees an amazing experience perfectly matching wine and food.
This is not a dinner for those who eat to live, it’s purely aimed at those who live to eat and you will be richly rewarded, as I was when I went and sampled this Oishii (delicious) Omakase set menu.
I like my meal to have a decent pulse and with the starter of flamed salmon sashimi with gremolata and truffle oil with a glass of Xinesteri, the beat started, swiftly quickening when followed by a glorious dish of ‘Inside out king prawn tempura sushi roll with flying fish caviar, partnered by a glass of cool crisp Chardonnay.
The palate-clinging flavour of the sea bass nanbanzuke with a zinging raspberry vinegar coriander and bean sprouts also worked well with the Tsiakkas Ros? wine.
The old juices were by now fairly racing, ready to savour the delicate delights of spinach and feta spring rolls in a silky green chilli lime sauce, this time with a sampling of Chardonnay Barique.
The meal was perfectly paced, I never felt rushed just excited by the thought of what was coming next, how it would be presented and how the wine would match the flavours of the food. Then it was a bowl of heavenly miso soup with wakame seaweed, followed by the wonderful Jasmine tea smoked duck with orange teriyaki and egg noodle salad. Here a glass of merlot did the trick, and my only regret is that I can’t relive the sheer pleasure of this dish again and again.
The finale was a basil and lemongrass pana cotta with passion fruit sauce accompanied by a glass of Liastos, a sun-dried sweet wine from the Xinesteri grape.
This dining experience will now be repeated for the general public during the Almyra Hotel’s Omakase week.
Starting Monday July 17 July and running until Sunday July 23. 19:30pm –21:00. £50 pp. 7 courses including a glass of tsiakkas wine with each course. Tel 26 933091, [email protected]
