All aboard
There can be no better way of seeing Paphos than from the deck of a cruiser. We take a short trip around the island’s western coast line
There are few of life’s pleasures that can match messing around in a boat, a feeling recently satisfied by a short sea voyage aboard the renovated Greek ferry the Wave Dancer.
This 35-year-old vessel, which used to carry holidaymakers to and from the Greek islands, is now berthed in Paphos harbour and lays claim to being the largest luxury coastal cruiser in Cyprus.
Despite its length and breadth it has ‘a low bottom’, giving the vessel the supreme advantage of being able to anchor in shallow water, allowing passengers the ability to step directly onto beaches.
We chose the half-day trip aware that families with small children are a bit nervous about being on board for a large chunk of the day, especially during the baking heat of summer. That element, however, wasn’t an issue on board the Wave Dancer as there is a large, well-covered area at the forward end of the boat that gives plenty of shade.
The tanning crowd opted for wooden sun loungers atop the aft deck, which also offers a grand all round viewing of the coast line travelled.
We pulled up anchor at 12 noon and passed out of the harbour en route to Coral Bay. Time to take stock of our fellow passengers, and much to our relief unlike other floating pleasure trips taken over the years, this vessel was spacious enough to eliminate that perennial horror of being squished in among loud families with tattooed fathers. Everyone on board had plenty of space to do their own thing and, with 16 staff in attendance, no one needed to leave their seat or sun lounger to make the wobbly, drink-spilling trip to or from the bar.
Everything was going smoothly, the clean blue waters of the Mediterranean started to gently mesmerise and we were swiftly falling into that wonderful peaceful relaxing mode unique to travelling by boat when suddenly, and without prior warning, the Righteous Brothers stole the moment as they belted out (via the loudspeaker system) their 1965 hit ‘You’ve Lost that Loving Feeling’. We sure did, and when I asked our captain why it was necessary to muffle the natural sound of the sea his reply was “Most people like having music played on board, it keeps them happy”. However most of the people I asked said they would be content just to hear the waves against the bows.
The entertainment continued in the shapely forms of three young ladies called the Wave Dancers. They performed energetically to the obvious delight of some middle-aged gents and several pre-pubescent boys. The numbers performed included traditional Cypriot, dancing to the soft shoe shuffle and yes, an exhausting display of skirts-in-the air Rock n Roll numbers.
Again the boat is spacious enough for those who wanted to escape this breezy Butlin’s type entertainment to do so.
Children are very well catered for on board, with games, competitions and the eagle eyed crew on the look out for any wandering child. A big bonus one mum pointed out was the clean loos with one specifically for mums with toddlers.
At 1:15 we dropped anchor in Coral Bay, with plenty of time for a swim. Back on board, the kitchen was doing a roaring trade with plates of rather good home made chips and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches (£2.75), chicken kebabs with chips and salad (£4.50), tuna and Greek salads, burgers (£4.50) and halloumi and tomato in pitta (£2.50). Drinks on board were reasonably priced with a well stocked bar.
After an hour, the engines started up again and we set off to return back to the harbour. Everyone on board seemed in the sunniest possible mood perhaps because it was so refreshing to travel at a more relaxed pace. We seem to rush around far too much, with the result that we miss a great deal and tend to forget how to just chill out. Onboard, as you nestle contentedly in your comfortable deck chair with just the sound of the waves whipping against the bow, you can freely contemplate the manner in which the on board disc jockey will eventually meet his demise.
Half day cruises depart at noon and return at 3pm. Adults £12, children £6. Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturday. Wave Dancer also operates a full-day cruise with lunch included, plus a traditional Cyprus night, a sunset cruise and a Millionaires night with gaming tables. Telephone 26 931544. email [email protected]