Clashes of old and new
Once is not enough to take in all the culture shocks of Tokyo
Happily digging into my aeroplane lunch of udon noodles and breaded pork cutlet I am interrupted by rather off-putting deep and loud slurping noises. With a look of disgust I turn round to face the petite Japanese lady sitting next to me with a bowl held close to her mouth. Almost downing all of her noodles in one go, she began sucking hard to get all the smaller pieces from the bottom of the dish. At that moment I remembered the words of the ‘Lonely Planet’ guide to Japan – slurping in public simply means you are thoroughly enjoying your meal, it’s good etiquette. I quickly took the look of horror off my face and grinned widely – I was on my way to the Far East and ready to experience all the culture shock I could possibly handle!
Despite not sleeping for two days, jet lag didn’t seem to be an issue as the plane touched down. I couldn’t dream of lying in bed as such an amazing city unfolded before my eyes. A glistening metropolis, where the jungle of skyscrapers seem to come alive with enormous screens advertising the latest Japanese gimmick and streets buzz as people swarm over complex crossroads while tapping away on the buttons of their glitzy flip mobile. I couldn’t walk for more than a few minutes without feeling the urge to take more and more fabulous holiday snaps of things I never thought could exist. Welcome to the streets of Tokyo.
Even going to the toilet proved a whole new experience – the Japanese are big on customer service, they love to keep you happy. To this end, they have been considerate enough to invent toilet seat flaps that lift up automatically as you approach them, they heat up when you sit on them and flush politely as you get up. Who could ask for more?
Continuing my adventures through the central areas of Shibuya and Shinjuku, I am greeted with the high-pitched cries of over excited sales assistants as recorded messages blare out from loudspeakers and each neon sign is brighter and bigger than the one before it. Every inch is crammed with arcades, karaoke bars, entertainment centres, shops, and mobile phone vendors sitting side by side various all-night anime cafes, seedy bars, strip joints and love hotels (yes they are what the name suggests). Everything in this crazed jumble follows one general theme – the brighter and flashier the better – understated glamour just will not do in Tokyo.
Somehow, I don’t remember feeling ‘lost in translation’ among the jumbling cityscape and new technological wonders, but rather, I was very much at ease.
Walking the streets really doesn’t fill you with the claustrophobic tension I thought it would. People swarm around like ants, monstrous buildings tower above, and yet things seem surprisingly calm and relaxed. Perhaps it’s the fact that everyone is so softly spoken, so careful and graceful with every step they take that you barely hear a sound. Or it may just be that everyone is far too busy playing games on their mobile, or immersed in their own world reading their latest edition anime comic to talk among themselves and so sound level remains minimal. Even cars don’t seem to make a noise, the air feels surprisingly fresh, trendy, open-air caf?s spill on to the pavements where even trendier people relax as they sip on their caf?-latt?s, and beautiful cherry blossoms make up for the concrete overdose.
People-watching is something you can’t help doing in a city where everyone holds an air of mystery. Smart-suited businessmen crowd the underground looking almost identical with their pristine dark blue gear and leather briefcases, as women elegantly stroll around the shops looking like they have just stepped off the catwalk, hair perfectly styled and expensive handbag carefully perched on one arm. How do they all look so immaculate? The answer was so simple – it comes down to the fact that they spend most of their waking life in search of the perfect outfit, the very best foundation, and the ‘oh so cutest’ bag they can possibly find. Grooming counts in a city that can’t be described as anything less than a fashion mecca. Even men compete with the young fashionistas as they hold funky handbags, straighten their hair to get their layers to flick perfectly in all the right places, and hang sparkling charms from bags and mobiles.
Yes, Japan is the land where the meaning of consumerism is taken to a whole new level… it’s not just a Saturday morning pastime, it’s not just something you do when the new season approaches and you feel you may need a few extra items – shopping is an entire way of life. Tokyo makes bargain-hunting in London seem drab, it sucks you into a world where finding the perfect pair of shoes is more important than eating or sleeping, it makes you want things you never thought you needed. Shopping centres are places to spend your whole day and night – you just can’t stop buying until you spend every penny in your wallet and your poor swollen and aching feet just can’t take you a step further.
In Decks Shopping and Entertainment Centre, positioned next to the majestic scenery of Tokyo Bay’s ‘Rainbow Bridge’ whole floors are dedicated to recreating a feel of 1960s Japan – the lights were dim, cherry blossom trees were planted on the inside, swinging sixties music played in the background and countless stalls dished up interesting Japanese culinary delights. As the night draws in, and your dear legs will not hold you up to shop any more, a stroll outside next to the waterfront takes you into a whole new dimension. Rainbow Bridge, named after the illuminations that light it up at night, was picture postcard perfect with the multitude of bright colours reflected in the still water, with the view of skyscrapers sparkling in the distant background.
In the trendy Harajuku area things got wilder, crazier and slightly obscene. This is the area where girls dress up as naughty nurses and men wear foundation topped off by thick black eye-liner, parading around in tall boots and sparkly leopard-print leotards. The Victorian maid outfit was also particularly popular, as was the ‘don’t dare look at me or I’ll kill you’ Goth look. Each Sunday the Cos-play-zoku (Costume Play Gang) gather to entertain excited photographers, posing and giggling the day away. Then there is the whole sub-culture of orange people gracing the streets – something like Japanese ‘umpa-lumpas’ that adorn their bodies with the coolest, brightest, hip-hop style clothing imaginable. I wanted to tell them that Asian skin is just so much nicer left white.
The nearby Kiddyland can’t go unmentioned – the epicentre of cute, cuddly, comical Japan which offers every kind of toy and gimmick imaginable. Here, grown women ogle over Hello Kitty products, filling their baby pink baskets with even brighter pink products and any shining, shimmering, gadget they can find. What do people do with all these toys? As bizarre as it may sound, they find any way possible to carry them around with them as they hang soft toys on their clothing, adorn their bags with charms, and even hold their cuddly friends in their arms as they shop. Strange? Not at all, just part of Tokyo style.
The city is not all hustle and bustle. On leaving Harajuku we wandered down to Yoyogi, one of Tokyo’s most beautiful parks and home to the Meji Jingu complex – Tokyo’s largest and most important shrine. Here you find absolute tranquillity as the pulsating neon jungle is replaced with thickly forested areas and cobbled pathways. This is exactly what I loved most about Tokyo – it’s a riddle of contradictions, where old meets new, where a surprise is hidden round every corner. Amid the wild urban dynamism you find hidden ancient shrines, luring you towards them. Below towering neon skyscrapers lie traditional bars housed in wooden shacks where red lanterns wave in the wind and sushi is enjoyed with good quality sake. In a city crazed with techn
ology, you can still stroll around neighbourhoods where life seems to potter along as it did centuries ago. Here, pockets of tiny fragile-looking houses with their rice-paper thin walls sit beside run-down noodle parlours, as kimono-clad geisha wander swiftly through the dark of the night to their next appointment.
On most days I felt like I was living in a surreal world – an unimaginable parallel universe. Pictures and films can’t possibly tell even half the story. How is it possible to explain a land where fun-loving anime characters come alive, a place where space-age designs lie side-by side ancient one-story dwellings, a complex puzzling cityscape where the peculiar synthesis of modern and traditional teases the imagination and lures you into its magic. Tokyo really must be experienced to be believed.
As the plane took off, I left Japan with a simple promise, “I’ll be back….”.
