Restaurant review by Jill Campbell Mackay

The Lazy Bull

Great dining for red meat lovers in Paphos

There’s value for money and then there’s cheap. Cheap can be value for money but the reverse is not always true. This seeming contradiction in terms is one that nearly always arises when talking about ordering and eating steak in restaurants.

Steaks are the signature dish at the Lazy Bull in Kato Paphos, a big, airy place that welcomes those who have a seriously decent appetite for red meat.Here, the prime fillet comes courtesy of the Argentinean plains rather than a Texas ranch, and jolly good it is too.

Black Angus cattle, renowned for their mellow flavour, are now considered highly desirable in better class eateries as they come to the grill or frying pan both growth hormone and pesticide free. They are reared not on high carbohydrate grains but on protein rich grasslands, which also makes for less cholesterol than US bred beef. In the Lazy Bull kitchen all the slabs of meat put on the grill display the the essential level of marbling, which is key to giving a proper steak its unique flavour.

A lot of people, myself included, are a bit nervous about ordering steak as at some time or another we have all been on the receiving end of some cruel and unusual treatment in so called ‘steak houses’.

Rest assured, at Lazy Bull you get what you pay for, with their popular special Makers Mark coated sirloin at £8.45, a juicy T-bone for £6.95, and butter soft fillet from £10.

On now to the much-abused hamburger, this simple patty of quality ground beef, served on a bun has, along with hot dogs and meat loaf, become one of the culinary symbols of America –but it is only really delicious if prepared with imagination, when skilfully seasoned and carefully cooked. Then, and only then, will a simple partnership of meat, bun, and fries be transformed into a Yankee doodle dandy of a delight.

The Lazy Bull does not let down its allegiance to the Yanks in this respect – the burger meets all the key criteria and at £6 with all the trimmings, it is an honest, great value for money meal.

Of course, there are dishes on the menu that are not bovine related – pork ribs show up as do several different chicken dishes including an American lemon version with red bell peppers, there’s also ‘deep South’ originated chowder on offer.

The evening I went, there was a simply delicious starter of blue cheese soup, followed by a sampling of lightly grilled prawns with sweet-corn. One thing I do enjoy when eating out is nibbling on decent bread and again, the Lazy Bull has to be given top marks. It would afterall look a bit off if the rolls weren’t up to snuff as restaurant owner Andreas Constantinides, runs his family’s bakery chain. As such the bread baskets offer only warm ciabatta, plain and nutty wholemeal, and are served with pots of fluffy butter.

At the rear of the restaurant a walk-in, temperature-controlled cava holds some of the best imported anda good selection of local wines. Andreas, I firmly believe, only opened the restaurant so he could at long last indulge in his passion for wine. This is a steak house that will partner your palette with a quite glorious selection of big reds, chunky Bordeaux and burgundies.

Outside, there’s a wood slatted roof terrace with deep sofas, wooden tables and wide green parasols, sadly though, not everyone will be able to enjoy the full indoor and outdoor Lazy Bull experience as good deal of steps need to be climbed to gain entry, there’s no lift, so wheelchair users will miss out. But once up, and onto the terrace it’s a really cool place to be, both from a style and temperature point of view come the hot humid nights of a Paphos summer.

VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALITY steaks
SEATING fifty plus
WHERE 20 Danaes Avenue Bireva Complex
CONTACT 26 962415
BOOKING advised at weekends (Open only for dinner)
PRICE from £10 without drinks