Wines with George Kassianos

Oenoforos

When a warehouse mentality is a good thing

Usually, when something is described as a warehouse, it is quite negative effect; it is a place where, other than storing things, people can walk in and buy items in bulk that are usually cheap. With Oenoforos, it is another story.

Oenoforos established themselves as wine merchants two years ago in 2004. No shop or cava, they have been dealing with wine on a wholesale basis, with only a little emphasis given to retail. Things have changed though, as Yiannakis Aristidou, company director, explains. “There are more and more people who are interested in quality wine. This is why we have created a UK-style warehouse”. Clients are able to walk into the basement – it used to be an underground car park – and take a trolley, just like in the supermarket. The search for a monthly wine stock begins. Usually, Oenoforos’ clients buy in quantities. This is not to say that the wines are lacking in quality, since the present wine list of Oenoforos has some well-known names from the vinous world. However, if somebody is interested in buying one or two bottles, as it is the norm in wine shops, the expertise of the staff working there will guide him to some excellent wine that covers seven countries.

Cyprus is represented by the Anogyra winery, the Domaine Nicolaides. The flagship wine of the Domaine 2002 Conte Nicolas, a Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet franc is available along with he excellent Aphrodino Rose vintage 2004. The wines that have established Oenoforos come from Latin America. Montes, the Chilean pioneers in winemaking, cover the three main wine producing areas of Chile: Apalta, Curico and Casablanca. They are considered as excellent value for money, particularly the Reserva line. For those demanding ‘selected wines’, Montes also offers the Alpha line. Not to forget though the boutique Chilean reds of Montes Alpha M, Montes Folly and the sold out Purple Angel. These are wines for collectors, and there are some wines in this warehouse for the demanding wine buffs. This column has also featured Kaiken, the Argentinean adventure of Aurelio Montes. There is more from Argentina in t he form of Mendoza’s valley Bodegas Achaval Ferrer and their excellent Quimera and Finca Altamira wines. The New World would not have been complete without Australian wines and Brown Brothers are one of the latest to be added to the Oenoforos list. I would recommend sweet wine lovers to try the 2003 Orange Muscat and Floral.

Back to the classic world and France. There is an extensive coverage from this country and soon visitors to Oenoforos will be able to try a very good Champagne House, that of Billecart-Salmon. However, it is the sign of Michel Picard that Francophiles must push their trolley near. From reasonably priced generic wines of Burgundy, C?te de Nuits, C?te de Beaune, Macconais, Chablis and Beaujolais to the Domaines of Ch?teau de Chassagne Montrachet, Domaine Voarick, Levert Barault, Champs Perdrix, De Davenay, Maison Chandesais and De Nety. South and Northern Rh?ne is no exception with Grandes Serres and Cave de La Visitation respectively. The Loire Valley is represented by Foucher Lebrun. Oenoforos has a branded wine from Languedoc in Southern France with the red wine a blend of Merlot Grenache and Carrignan vintage 2004 and the white a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Ugni Blanc.

Finally, Italy is represented by Castello Banfi and Baroncini wineries with wines from Tuscany; Allegrini with wines from Veneto, Banfi; and Giacosa Bruno with wine from Piedmont. To complement this extensive list, Martinez Bujanda of Rioja is the winemaker representing Spain.

A formidable list for a warehouse.

Oenoforos. Nafpliou 18 Limassol. Tel: 25 760608, 99 571267

Wine of the Week

2002 Chianti Classico Riserva, Banfi, DOCG Montalcino
Although there will be a special feature on this winemaker, I could not resist this Chianti. The 2002 vintage was cool and wet and few reserves have made it through. Mainly from the Sangiovese grape, it has a dark cherry colour, youthful with an aromatic nose of ripe cherry, with rounded fruit, spice, leather and mint. An underlying oak on the elegant palate, full bodied with balanced fine tannins and dense fruit and with a firm finish. Lovely now but will improve to 2010. Serve at 17°C with tomato based pasta, ciabbatas, and roast pork or chicken cooked in tomato sauce.