Once is never enough
Known as the Paris of the Middle East, Beirut really does have a lot to offer the visitor, including its trips to other splendours around the country
The stigma Lebanon acquired during its civil war (1975-1991) is one that, in minds of many tourists, will be very hard to shift. Mention Beirut and there is an immediate association with bombs and high profile kidnappings, with the result that, despite a unique 5,000 year cultural heritage, this country hasn’t exactly been top of most travellers’ itineraries since.
This, believe me, shouldn’t put you off. The country is now one of the most hospitable and beautiful places on the planet and it’s about time the rest of the world was let in on this secret.
The other huge selling point is the fact that locals haven’t in any way reached the stage where they are jaded by tourism; quite the reverse, they are genuinely delighted to see foreign visitors along with their much-needed dollars.
From Larnaca airport it’s only a 20 minute flight (barely time for a gin and tonic) to the new and very user friendly Beirut airport. It is then only a 15-minute taxi ride to the city centre. We stayed at the perfectly appointed and very friendly Etoile Suites, slap bang in the middle of the now beautifully re constructed port area close to the Place de Etoile.
Day one and we set off after breakfast to the Jeita Grottos. We had no clue as to what these were as our itinerary had been planned on our behalf. To be brutally honest, all we had wanted to do was shop and mouldy old caves didn’t exactly come top of our ‘to do list’. But, we dutifully acquiesced.
The experience turned out to be one of those once in a lifetime visual moments – quite literally awesome. The Grotto is situated 18km along the highway of Beirut. After a 120m tunnel led us deep into the bowels of the mountain, we were greeted by a massive upper gallery which, via a walkway, we meandered through a science fiction world of the most unbelievable images of stalactites and stalagmites imaginable. It’s a truly magical place, sculpted by nature, imbued with colours and texture that would do justice to a Hieronymus Bosch painting.
Truly impressive is the underground lake, set at a lower level, but only those with a total lack of claustrophobia will enjoy the short torch lit boat trip punctuated solely by the oars of the boat, and the eerie sounds of slowly dripping water.
Returning, we stopped off at the church of Our Lady Of Lebanon. Her 2,000ft statue dominates the city, set high on the soaring mountain and from there you have a panoramic view of the city and, far below, the shimmering bay of the harbour.
Eating out in Beirut is a genuine pleasure. Here, you honestly believe people do indeed live to eat, rather than eat to live and we were not disappointed. I ate quite the very best food I have savoured in a long time, beautifully served, immaculately cooked, and every time I think of my dinner at the Mhanna Restaurant I am salivating like Pavlov’s dogs. It’s worth the trip over just to come here and eat.
Day two and a two-hour drive east of Beirut to Baalbeck, through the stunning Bekaa Valley to visit Lebanon’s most famous temple created by Julius and Augustus Caesar. One of the wonders of the ancient world, going back to the third millennium BC, the first sight you get when driving into the town is of six towering Corinthian fluted columns thrusting themselves 27 metres into the skyline. The temple of Bacchus is also a must see, similar to the Parthenon in design but here the structure is in much better repair and to my mind even more magnificent.
After a simple lunch of lamb rice and beans washed down with hot tea at the Restaurant Al-Ajami we left Baalbeck, journeying back through the Bekaa valley, renowned for its winemaking (among other things). Here you can stop off at Ksara, one of the oldest wineries to enjoy a sampling session.
Day three, and it was, finally, retail therapy time. Walking around the Hamra shopping district, there was loads of silver at rock bottom prices but our best buy was a set of fine Egyptian cotton towels for five dollars.
Time to return to the airport, which offers in duty free an excellent mini Harrods type food hall – everything a foodie could possible dream of is there, from superb quality sweets, cheeses, syrups, nuts, and the chance to stock up on some of the cheapest priced wines, spirits and tobacco.
Lebanon is a truly wonderful place, with a sheer wealth of culture held within its tiny boundaries; it’s also a place that has a definite edge to it, making it even more of a magical destination, one that will definitely bring us back for a return visit.
