Regional wineries are the way forward
SODAP leads the pack with its three smaller wineries, including the one at Kamanterena
It has been claimed that regional wineries are the answer to making good quality wine. In addition to the island’s independent wineries, the majority of which are not too far from the vineyards, the major wine companies are now developing such projects too. Fine examples are KEO’s Ktima Mallia and, since 2004, SODAP’s Stroumbi regional winery in Kamanterena.
The ever ebullient Alexy Machuca, chief-winemaker of SODAP, is adamant that the exclusive management of vineyards is the only way to not only achieve better results but also to protect winemaking itself in Cyprus. Alexy stressed the need to organise vineyards, claiming that the way things are, in ten years Cypriot wineries might be forced to buy wine from abroad. This is simply because there won’t be enough vineyards to satisfy the needs of these wineries. The influx of cheaper – but not necessarily better –wines from around the vinus world is providing a challenge for all Cypriot winemakers to produce good quality, value for money wines that correspond to the needs of the modern wine consumer. Hence the four million investment by SODAP to create this regional winery.
We met Alexy with Stavros Stephanou (SODAP Sales Supervisor Paphos) at his lab, where bottles of various Island Vines blends were ready to be sent for tasting in UK, the prime export market of the Island Vines line and SODAP in general. Alexy believes in blending. It helps the local grape varieties to retain their originality and the terroir effect in the bottle, while blending them with imported grape varieties improves the indigenous grape’s colour, aroma and body. Blending is an art in itself. It was in that lab that we tasted the 2005 Xinisteri originating from Kathikas and destined to be the 2005 white Island Vines. Intense aromas from the fruit market, a mixture of tropical and citrus blossoms. The vintage 2005 worked better on whites and Xinisteri in particular. Can’t wait!!
What impressed me most in the winery though, was the gleam of the stainless steel tanks, most towering 20 feet or higher. The area was wet and cold, and this is where the main tasting took place. Those stainless steel tanks are nursing SODAP’s varietals for their wines, including Mountain Vines, Island Vines and the new Kamanterena line and SODAP Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a modern and spacious working area where the winery can receive eight million kilos of grapes a year and has the capacity to produce 3.5 million liters if wine. Studying the production line, one cannot fail to notice why it cost SODAP £4 million. There are five pneumatic presses for both red and white grape varieties, a must cooler that drops the temperature of the grape juice from 25?c to 12?C and the tanks – the vessels that wine fermentation and wine ageing takes place in. The new type of tank that SODAP installed is the Ganymede type that allows the even fermentation of grape juice in the tank in addition to its contact with carbon dioxide. Further, one cannot fail to notice the French and American oak barrels used for some of their reds and whites.
We tried several varietals such as Xinisteri, Semillon and Ugni Blanc and Grenache Rouge, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro and Mavro. A promising varietal is the 2005 SODAP Chardonnay. This is a wine full of citrus and white fruit aromas, crispy with a touch of clean minerality.
Like the Chardonnay, the future is promising for SODAP. The Stroumbi regional winery will soon be complete with a tasting and lecture room as well as a traditional cuisine restaurant. The future lies in regionality and SODAP is certain a pioneer with two more regional wineries in Pachna and Kathikas.
Wines of the week
2004 Kamanterena, Rhine Riesling Xinisteri, SODAP, Paphos Region, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
A medium dry white blend from a local and an imported grape variety. Straw yellow with greenish hints in colour; aromas of fresh fruit of crisp apple and pears, and rose petals. An elegant wine, and quite racy. Still with good acidity, medium body, a straightforward wine with a lovely finish. A very good wine for spicy food and curries with coconut milk, salads with fruit and mild cheese served at 9?C.
2004 SODAP Cabernet Sauvignon, SODAP, Paphos region, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
Deep red colour, a warm and youthful red wine plum, pruney and spacey, with a hint of chocolate. Good pleasant and open dark fruit on the palate, medium to full bodied, subtle tannins, velvety and smooth with some leather and spice. At 18?C, try this wine with rabbit stifado and stewed beef.
