Wine, God and good mezze
In the first of a new monthly series of day trips that take in a winery and a good lunch, we visit the village of Pelendri
The devil may well have the best tunes but God has the prime real estate and nowhere is that saying more true than here in Cyprus. We boast a bulging portfolio of wonderful churches, there’s at least one at the centre of every village. Some cling, limpet-like, to the sides of hills or perch precariously atop mountains, many are tucked away almost hidden in quiet fields, and others stand proud at the top of the high street in our major towns.
For some, the prospect of a day spent visiting churches may be a less than enticing prospect, but if combined with a visit en route to a fine winery, followed by lunch at a jolly good restaurant, the day then begins to take on a more rounded, agreeable aspect.
For this trip, I suggest starting off about 9am and, if coming from Paphos, take the turn off to Troodos at the second roundabout as you approach Limassol. Keep on this road for about thirty minutes of slowish, careful driving then watch out for a big sign on the left that indicates the turn off to the Tsiakkas winery.
Take the turn to the right on to the Trimiklini road. Start the climb through some lovely pine forests then, about 2km further on, follow another sign (on the right) for an immediate left turn for the winery. Don’t be alarmed when you make this sharp turn, as it seems as if you are going into the back of beyond. You are but it’s perfectly OK for saloon cars as the road is good and its only about another 700m before you reach the winery.
It’s honestly well worth the effort as the Tsiakkas winery is not only perfectly positioned, perched as it is high above vineyards amid pine forests, but it also offers some pretty sensational wines. Husband and wife team Marina and Costas Tsiakkas are justifiably proud of their creation – that goes not only for the winery but also the small museum of wine artefacts they have lovingly collected over the years.
They offer a professional wine tour, which lasts about 30 minutes, ending, of course, in a tasting session of their three main wines with the opportunity to buy at wholesale prices. (The Merlot is superb). Once you have visited the winery the temptation to linger is strong as, with glass in hand, you wander outside and relish the stunning view.
Coming out of the entrance to the winery take a left and about five minutes’ drive away is the village of Pelendri. Nestling into the hillside, this almost untouched village is bereft of ‘new’ homes and still radiates that old-world charm of yesteryear. Here you will find the rather lovely old Church of Stavros – go to the end of the village and turn right at the bottom of the road. About two houses up on the left hand side lives Mrs Anastasia Stasou, the keeper of the key to the church.
On your right as you enter the church is the ‘Tree of Jesse,’ showing the genealogy of Jesus, there’s also an enshrined cross, for which the church is named, encased in silver and that alone is worth the journey.
Time for lunch and it’s a return trip back through the village to the main road. Turn right as you exit the village, making for Amiandos. It’s a narrow winding road and after about fifteen minutes of easy driving you come to a junction with the main road, turn right then sharp left at the sign for the Amiandos Gardens Restaurant.
Time to tuck into a fresh and decidedly different mezze. Spiro the chef and owner has won the CTO award for having the most hygienic kitchen three years on the trot and his cooking is based entirely on fresh, quality ingredients cooked to perfection. His mother’s home-made lasagne is also another tune that is memorable and, as a chorus, one just has to taste his chicken breasts, served with a salad that hums nicely of the best tasting local feta.
This place may look like a grim wedding palace from the outside but enter it and you are welcomed into an environment where food is taken very seriously. And the wine served is of course from Tsiakkas so you can relax and relish another, more enthusiastic tasting along with your lunch.
Tsiakkas Winery
Open Monday to Saturday 9-5pm. Tel: 25 991080 or 99 567898. Fax 25 344683. email [email protected]. Visit www.cyprusvines.com to learn more about the winery.
Amiandos Gardens, Kato Amiandos. Tel: 25 552691 or 99 657509
