Raising the bar
The search for a Cyprus sommelier 2006 could reveal new strengths in the wine industry
I remember the first time I participated as a judge at Troph?e Ruintart. It was back in 2001 and the winner was George Hadjistilianou of the Barolo restaurant in Limassol. At the time, people involved with wine were beginning to realise what the work of a sommelier really entails. And it was not about telling guests – most in an amateurish and incorrect way – which wine to order with their meal.
It was only after the European finals in France that George also realised how big the gap between Europe and us is. But he made progress. Winner again in 2003, he represented Cyprus in France and fared better. He also created one of the best wine lists featured in a restaurant, at Barolo, something that The Wine Spectator magazine recognises. To epitomise his efforts, this year George became the Head Sommelier of the super luxury Elounda Beach in Crete – a member of the Leading Hotels of the World. Working at Elounda is a tremendous experience. To be twice winner as best sommelier played its part in convincing his new employers of his abilities. During the brief encounters we had since he first started there, George was really excited about his new job, referring frequently to the high standards of wine service. Something, sadly, he cannot say it exists at that level yet in Cyprus.
In 2005, there is a chance for a new sommelier to emerge. On November 12 at The Four Seasons, Ruinart and The International Sommelier Association along with The Cyprus Sommelier Association and Ruinart’s local supplier Victor Papadopoulos of La Maison du Vin are staging the third Troph?e Ruinart. Cypriot citizens and members of the Cyprus Sommelier Association can participate. On Saturday, for the younger candidates, it will be an enormously demanding contest. Remember, this is not just a contest to show that one can open a bottle of wine with the greatest aplomb. The first stage involves all of them undergoing a written tests on oenology, matching food and wine, serving techniques, cellar management, and a blind tasting. The six best will fight for a place in the finals. They will be judged on their performance in opening and decanting a bottle of wine.
The culmination of the competition is reached when the final three are selected. The final three sommeliers have to ‘perform’ in front of large audience. They have to undertake tasks such blind tasting two wines and five spirits, correcting faults on a wine list, undertaking role-play scenario, giving recommendations to diners, opening wine and decanting, opening and serving champagne. At the end they have to answer a surprise question. All have to be completed in strict timing and under the scrutiny of judges.
As Gerard Basset MW, who won the European award in 1996, maintained that a successful sommelier must be proficient in three key areas – they must have sound product knowledge; they must have technical skills, not only how to serve wine properly, but also in the whole concept of service, in particular its timing, balancing it with the flow of the food from the kitchen; and, above all, a sommelier must have good communication skills. A sommelier is a salesman who must quickly judge the customers’ needs to provide a ‘restaurant experience’.
Wine of the week
2003 Idisma Drios, Merlot, Techni Oinou Estate, Regional Wine of Drama
Techni Oinou began when Yiannakis Kalatzidis planted Cabernet in an abandoned family vineyard 1993. What began as a hobby quickly developed a life of its own. Joined by Yiannis Papadopoulos in 1995, the two men have created a smart new winery at Microhori, just outside Drama in Makedonia.
Idisma Drios is a silver medal winner of the Thessaloniki International Wine competition and one of the latest ventures of Techni Oinou estate. The wine is given its name by the rich sweetness that the oak gives to the taste and aroma of Merlot. A firmly structured wine with an attractive nose of fresh plum fruit flavours, violet, cinnamon and nutmeg. Some scattered wild herbs too. The palate has some sweet vanilla oak, plum and black cherries. Balanced, round and full-bodied with integrated tannins. Served at 17?C, try this with any barbecued or grilled red meat, especially beef. Distributed by La Maison du Vin.
