There’s something for everyone on Captain Corelli’s island
IT’S THE great escape period of the year, with the sweltering months of July and August making most of us ache for a drop in temperature. This is the time when wise locals depart for one of the seven exceedingly friendly and always beautiful Ionian islands.
Kefalonia, is the one of these Greek treasures; the largest of the islands, it offers visitors a quite remarkable historical tour having had a long history of occupation by the Romans, Venetians, French, Turks, and, of course, the British.
Kefalonia was one of the last of the islands to climb on the tourist band wagon and, as a result, it is not overtly commercial and is free from the yob culture that pervades other parts of Greece. However, the population in the summer months rises from the 38,000 locals to accommodate a further 32,000 visitors from late May until the end of October. Despite this seasonal influx, the island does not seem in any way overcrowded or, indeed, over commercialised.
Heavy rainfall during the winter months allows for a lush and fertile landscape, and those interested in a more energetic day out can climb Aenos, the highest peak in the island’s mountain range. Kefalonia lays claim to being the most mountainous of all the islands so there is plenty of opportunity for a day or so spent walking the goat tracks, enjoying the aroma of wild thyme, sage and oregano along with the scent from the thousands of fir trees that are unique to this part of the Mediterranean. Pedal power is also popular with many (fit) visitors opting for a day mountain biking.
With over 50 species of wild orchids indigenous to the island there’s something for the amateur botanist. Wildlife too abounds in the form of hares, foxes, moles and a wide variety of bird life, thousands of goats run wild on the hill slopes and, if you are really lucky, you can spot the herd of wild horses that have made their home on mount Aenos. One thing is for sure, if you decide to meander through the island either by car or bus, just make sure you have a decent constitution as the seemingly never-ending, twisting roads do make for a slightly dizzy and often white-knuckle ride.
For those who relish less energetic pursuits, beaches with beautiful white sands and crystal clear waters are to be found around the island. The most popular are Makri Ghialos, Plati Ghialos, Skala, Zola, and Myrtos. Opportunities for water sports abound and although the very sensible ruling by the Greek government not to allow scuba diving off the mainland in order to protect ancient artefacts, here in Kefalonia registered dives can and do take place in certain areas.
You are spoiled for choice when it comes to sightseeing – there’s the Venetian castle in Assos, the lovely churches of Domata, Kalligata, Svoronata and Havriata where centuries old icons are on view. One of the most popular trips is a visit to the Melissani Lake and the Drogarati cave. The former is one of the most spectacular natural sights with an underground tunnel that leads you into a cave with the ‘lake’ in. Quite the most wonderful shades of blue are reflected from its crystal clear water. It’s also a perfect place to cool off as the cave itself sits at a steady 14 degrees all year round.
The Drogarati cave was opened to the public in 1963 and you have to traverse a good number of ‘wet’ stairs that lead into it. There are thousands of stalactites and stalagmites which have taken millions of years to form. Another ideal place to cool off as the temperature is always 17 degrees.
Other than a visit to Argostoli, where there is a magnificent library containing over 53,000 volumes of rare books, plus a shopping area which will satisfy almost everyone’s retail therapy needs, also go to Fiskardo town on the northern tip of the island. This is a must see as here you get a vision of what the original architecture of the island was like before the devastating earthquake in 1953 that totally destroyed most of the island’s buildings. Fiskardo town was one of the areas least affected and proudly shows off some very old and attractive buildings. It’s also a safe harbour town, and its here that the rich and famous park their million pound sailing vessels to then go into town and dine on fine fish and quality wines.
Day cruises can also be arranged to take you to visit the neighbouring islands of Ithaki, Zakintho and Lefkada.
Fishing is still one of the key forms of earning a livelihood, as is the making of the famous Kefalotiri cheese, and word has it that this is the place to savour the very best fetta. Mandoles which are sugar coated nuts are popular as gifts, but many more people will bring back home a bottle or two of the excellent vintages produced by the six modern wineries.
l Skevi Travel has a three-day package to Kefalonia, including direct flights from Larnaca with Helios Airways and bed and breakfast accommodation. Departs are every Tuesday from July 12 to August 30. 12 Pireos Street, Strovolos, Nicosia. Tel: 22 442055, Fax: 22 442054, [email protected]
