Regional differences give a pleasing complexity to New Zealand’s wine
NEW Zealand’s wine regions span about 1,000km in latitude. It is a long, thin country: head down south and the whites and the wines become crisper and more vibrant. Chardonnay goes from ripe peach to citrus, Sauvignon Blanc from lush tree fruit to a pungent mix of tropical and vegetal flavours. Pinot Noir is positively plumy in Martinborough and subtly spicy in the Deep South. Regional differences introduce a pleasing complexity to New Zealand wine.
New Zealand wines seem to have captured the imagination of enthusiasts everywhere. Regardless of where you go, people seem to lavishly praise the wines of this small, isolated country. Only 30 years ago few people knew New Zealand as a wine producer. If you take a mirror image of a map of New Zealand and turn it upside down, the country resembles the ‘boot’ of Italy. New Zealand’s two largest islands are separated by a narrow strait near the ‘ankle’. As in Italy, the foot is warmer than the top; this being the southern hemisphere. Although grapes grow throughout the country, the better quality fruit originates in regions with moderate Mediterranean-type climates.
To simplify things and clearly clarify the changes, draw a line across the country somewhere between Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay. Above the line you will find the best reds made from Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc) and the best Syrah. Below the line is the birthplace of New Zealand’s finest Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir and high-quality sparklers. Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer have performed with distinction the length and breadth of the country, although regional styles do differ.
Matua and Hawke’s Bay
At Hilton International in Nicosia, wine aficionados had the chance to experience wine from Matua Valley in the Hawke’s Bay region. Matua Valley winery founders were the brothers Ross and Bill Spence. Their goal in setting up the winery in late sixties was to revolutionise the still fledgling local wine industry, taking advantage of unique regional qualities to create innovative and distinguished wines – the kind they wanted to drink themselves. It took six years and the winery was established in 1973. From their first successful vintage produced in “the old Tin Shed” in Auckland, the brothers went on to win awards and accolades from Sydney to London. Their greatest achievement in these early days was the production of the first New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Hawke’s Bay is the kiwi answer to Bordeaux. It has history and pride, quality and just a little envy for the rather more bullish Marlborough region. It is a large region with diverse soils, patterns and climates that range from coastal locations moderated by sea breezes to warmer inland and cooler high-altitude sites. Hawke’s Bay is best known for its red wines made from Bordeaux grape varieties and Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc is widely planted thanks to export demand for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, although the Hawke’s Bay style is closer to Bordeaux Blanc Sec than it is to the Marlborough benchmark. Emerging districts within Hawke’s Bay are making a name for themselves, most notably the 800ha area that has been defined by local growers and Christened ‘Gimblett Gravels’. Hot growing conditions boosted by heat-reflecting and retaining surface rocks have proved ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and especially Syrah.
Wines of the week
2004 Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay Alcohol Volume 13%
From Matua Winery comes this Sauvignon Blanc from blend grapes from ocean side vineyards in Bay View and from Puketapu, situated inland on the banks of Tutaekouri River. The 2004 vintage was relatively cool and dry conditions providing an extended ripening season and superb conditions for the productions of this regional wine. Yellowish green in colour with elegant concentration on the nose, complex apple and gooseberry bouquet. Herbal and clean, soft tropical fruit hints – apple and melon dominant on the palate and with a hint of minerality on the finish. Drink now at 7ºC for lunch preferably with rocket and spinach salads, sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese and roasted pine-nuts.
2002 Hawke’s Bay Matua Valley Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Alcohol Volume 12%
This is a classic Bordeaux blend. A pleasant wine that has a deep red colour and a smooth, ripe build. Plumy nose with ripe berry fruit deriving from a hot and dry vintage that produced fully matured fruit with flavour development. Soft round tannins on the palate, lush and classy, with notes of coffee complement to a well structured finish. The wine, although pleasant to consume now, will continue to develop until 2008. Served at 18ºC it is simply a perfect match with all red meat barbequed meals.
l Matua Valley wines are imported from La Maison du Vin
