George Kassianos: the wine guy

Tuscany: The Baron of Chianti
The return of some fine wines to their family hold which can now be enjoyed in Cyprus
FOR WINE lovers, Tuscany is probably the most attractive region as far as Italy is concerned. This particular area evokes a renaissance landscape oozing gourmet food and wine as no other region does. Its rolling, vine-clad hills, olives and cypress trees are just a part of the attraction which draws a huge numbers of discerning travelers and wine lovers to the area.

The region’s history, traditions and culture extend to magnificent cities – like Florence and Siena to name but a few – mediaeval hilltop villages and endless hamlets scattered around a timeless countryside, all of which encompass Italy’s heartland. Its picturesque farmhouses, castles and monasteries are very often home to some of the top wine estates, hotels and restaurants.

Tuscany is arguably Italy’s premium wine-producing region. If you visit this region you must include in your schedule the classic areas such as Chianti, Montalcino and Montepulciano. Marked by its diverse terrain and its many microclimates, Tuscany offers a range of different styles of wine even within the same grape variety, Sangiovese being the main grape in DOCG and DOC blends. Its name originates from the term sangue di Giove – the blood of the ancient god Jove – which gives some idea of the importance attached to wine there.

For those who wish to explore the different styles of Tuscany, Chianti Classico is a good starting point. The area can easily be reached from either Siena or Florence. Its territory encompasses the original Chianti villages Radda, Gaiole, Castellina, Greve and Panzano, favoured for their excellent terroir.

Near Gaiole we can climb up to Castello di Brolio and Castello di Cachiano, owned by the Ricasoli family, an ancient aristocratic line of barons. The Castello di Brolio, a fortress constructed during the middle-ages, has been the seat of Barone Ricasoli since the 12th century. Nevertheless, in the 1960s financial difficulties resulting from Chianti’s then dire reputation resulted in the family being forced to sell the estate to Seagram. It subsequently changed hands several times, passing through the ownership of United Wine Producers and then BRL Hardys. Unsurprisingly quality suffered and Castello di Brolio fell from grace. In 1993, however, Francesco Ricasoli, who was working as a photographer in Florence, purchased the estate from Hardys in an attempt to salvage the reputation of his family name. With the help of consultant oenologist Carlo Ferrini and Marchese Filippo Mazzei of Castello di Fonterutoli, Francesco Ricasoli begun to turn things around at Castello di Brolio. The winery was restored, modernised and restocked with new barrels and many of the vineyards were replanted.

The Chianti Classico reflects terroir and tradition. Brolio produces some fine wines, which fall outside the mainstream appellation, made in part or entirely from international varieties (see Casalferro a Super Tuscan of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot).

Wine of the Week
2000 Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Rocca Guicciarda’, DOCG, Alcohol Volume 13.5%

The Oenoforos wine merchants import the Barone Ricasoli wines to Cyprus. This is a Chianti produced from late harvest Sangiovese grapes and aged in a mixed of barrique and tonneaux for twenty months. A dense deep red colour, with flashes reminding of pomegranate. Intense bouquet in which you can recognise the notes of raspberry, blackberry, violets and a delicate shade of vanilla. The wine is full, elegant, long and perfectly balanced. Serving temperature 16º – 18ºC and is served best with barbecued meat, roast veal, mutton and blue cheese.
For more information contact Oenoforos Wines 25 387205

It’s a date
Claus Lyng Hansen of Beringer Blass will be visiting Cyprus to present wines from California, Australia and New Zealand to local oenophiles. On March 30 at 6pm, the Hilton Nicosia will host a wine tasting of Beringer Blass wines followed by a four-course gala dinner for £25 per person at 8.30pm. For more information contact Hilton Nicosia, tel: 22 377777.