THERE’S nothing new about this ‘edible history’ book – after all, it was first published in 1996. Reprint after reprint, however, it confirms our hungry fascination with the ancient world, and the fun to be had dabbling in banquet fare and slave food.
Andrew Dalby is a classics scholar, linguist and food historian, with titles such as Siren Feasts: A History of Food and Gastronomy in Greece and Empire of Pleasures: A Geography of Roman Luxury under his belt. He is accompanied on his historical gastronomic quest by Sally Grainger, a professional chef with a degree in ancient history, who is now a food historian specialising in ancient baking techniques. The two were the first to explore ancient Mediterranean cuisine from 750BC to 450AD, drawing on a mass of sources beyond the familiar and extravagant recipes of Roman gourmet Apicius, who mainly describes the food of the privileged classes at the end of the Roman Empire. All types of food are represented here, from elite menus to simple meals of soldiers and farmers, allowing you, the modern cook, to pick up ancient echoes and recreate the varied diet of the classical world.
Before getting down to pleasure, of course, you’ll need first to digest a bit of history at the beginning of each chapter. No need to roll the eyes or heave a sigh, however. The authors take it lightly, serving up scraps and titbits of delectable information, without exaggerating their enthusiasm.
No prizes for guessing the ingredients: let’s just hazard that olive oil, honey, spices, fish, poultry and game figure prominently. In ‘The Homecoming of Odysseus’ you get to try out delicacies such as olive relish courtesy of Homer and Cato, Toronean tuna thanks to Archestratus and roast kid or lamb, with a marinade of milk and honey, and a sauce of dates, red wine and olive oil. The ‘Banquet of Philoxenus’ is enriched with cheese and sesame sweetmeats, honey-glazed shrimps and barley rolls. ‘The Markets of the Mediterranean’ yield fish in coriander crust, salt meat stew and Delian sweets. ‘Cato’s Farm’ specialises in lentils, smoked sausages, garlic cheese and even a sweet or savoury cheesecake, while spiced wine, Parthian chicken and shoulder of pork with sweet wine cakes conjure up the ‘Wealth of Empire’.
Superbly illustrated with delightful scenes of food, hunting, feasting, and carousing from wall paintings, mosaics and Greek vases, this British Museum publication will be equally comfortable on the kitchen shelf, the coffee or bed-side table.
The Classical Cookbook is published by the British Museum and is available from Moufflon Bookshops (£10.50)
