Out and about with Jill Campbell Mackay
If visiting churches is not your thing, perhaps the frescoes of Troodos will change your mind
MICHELANGELO described painting in the fresco technique as “the most difficult and most daring way of painting”.
Artists would draw and paint directly on wet lime then they applied colour layers that would penetrate deep into the plaster. The end result is almost miraculous, given that a layer of colour only 0.25cm has stood the test of time and all the destructive forces of climatic change over the same period.
Here in Cyprus we are deeply privileged to have some wonderful examples of this ‘daring artistry’, in the unique form of the painted churches of the Troodos. And they can be seen on a day trip combining grand scenery, sacred themes, spiritual solace, the option of an off-road white-knuckle experience, ending with a jolly good lunch.
Adrian Condren, owner of Biketrek Cyprus and also my guide for the day, was researching the area for a mountain bike tour of the painted churches. This included an interesting short cut, which if you are a mountain biker is sensational, but suicidal for saloon drivers and only OK for brave owners of sturdy four wheel drives (and strong stomachs).
We started our secular search on the outskirts of Kakopetria. It’s actually three kilometres from the village, a turn off the main Troodos road, signed to Ayios Nikolas tis Steyis.
Here the resident caretaker, who in winter sits in his car in the large car park adjacent to the church will leap out clutching a set of enormous Medieaval keys and allow entry to this lovely 11th century church.
Inside is the first taste of the calibre of art work these small colourful churches offer, expressing man’s naïve, prodigious, solemn imagination, and always his quite irresistible joy of life.
Moving towards the altar area, on the right there is a painting of the Virgin breastfeeding the child with a symbolic, anatomically incorrect teat. This is thought to be the sole ‘fresco’ image in existence of this ‘natural nurturing’.
Moving on through the village of Kakopetria, take the old road through Galatia and make for the next two timber-roofed churches, set only a few metres from each other.
The first is the small Panayia Theotokou (Archangelos) built in 1514; here is an interesting post Byzantine illustration of ‘Peter’s Denial’. The walls in all these churches tell a powerful visual story of the complete life of Christ, essential imagery when few could read, so the sole purpose of the fresco was to make the bible and the lives of the saints come to life for the congregation.
A short walk away (100metres) is the larger Panayia Podithou built in 1502; it once doubled as both a church and as a residence for the local monks. The walls of this church are painted in a manner which is pure Italian Byzantine in style, with cartoon-like covered panels.
Both these churches are without a caretaker on the spot so the best place to hunt down the key holder is to go to the local Lina garage, they will then give directions to a coffee house which acts as this man’s office.
Move on for the ‘star of the show’ in the form of the Church of Our Lady of Pastures in Asinou, built in 1105.
By car it’s situated 12km from Ayios Theodhoros, 5km from Nikitari village and 20km north of Kakopetria. If you fancy an adrenalin boost then you can opt to take the rough, shorter route over the mountain but only if you have four wheel drive and consider yourself a competent rally driver.
To get there from Kakopetria, take the road past Evrichou, then turn right at signpost to Ayios Theodhoros. Go up that road for 3km when, on the left, there is a small signpost for Asinou. Then it’s onto a (very) loose surface, definatly not for nervous Nellies. 12km later and it’s back to civilisation. Turn right onto the main road and Asinou church is a few metres on the right.
Out of all the painted churches in the Troodos, Asinou is considered to be the finest; few who visit can fail to be moved by the sheer brilliance and execution of the images. There are angels, prophets, apostles, and saints in what can only be described as ‘living colour’.
My favourite Asinou image is the wall of 40 martyrs, and the superb Saint Mamas astride his lion. Above the rear archway there is a beautiful illustration of a moufflon with hunting dogs, both highly unusual images, which do not appear in any other churches.
Here there is a permanent caretaker who shuts up shop (promptly at 1:15pm, opening up after lunch). He also sells interesting books, packs of postcards and icons.
For those who fancy another helter skelter 12km ride, turn right outside the church and follow the signs to Spylia. Sedate saloon drivers will have to go back the way they came.
It’s lunchtime and about a fifteen minute drive from Kakopetria en route to Limassol/Paphos is the village of Amiandos, on the Saittas-Karvounas Road. Make for Amiandos Gardens, which is at the very end of the village. Here you are guaranteed fresh, well-made mezze cooked in pristine surroundings by Spiros, who has won the CTO title of Most Hygienic kitchen in the Limassol area for the past two years. His mother’s home-made lasagne is awfully good as well. Out of respect, one can then relax and enjoy a glass of locally-made communion wine supplied by the always excellent Tsiakkas winery.
l Biketrek Cyprus. Tel: 99 939275, [email protected] Amiandos Gardens Restaurant Tel 25 552691, 99 657509
