IT HAS been a long time since I have watched a documentary on wine. The new docu-film Mondovino looks at the perceived threat globalisation poses to terroir (the taste of the land). This particular subject was briefly touched at a recent tasting in Limassol, organised by the Ministry of Agriculture’s Oenological department. At the tasting there were wines from the new appellation of origin areas, which were based on indigenous grape varieties – Mavro and Xinisteri – blended with imported varieties.
In the docu-film, director Jonathan Nossiter interviews some of the world’s most influential winemakers, travelling from Brazil to Bordeaux, and Argentina to Aniane in the South of France. The film shadows global consultant Michel Rolland, visits wine critic Robert Parker at his Maryland home, interviews Michel and Robert Mondavi, the Frescobaldi family, Aimé Guilbert of Mas Daumas Gassac and an extended cast of family winemakers.
The director is making a 10-hour TV series from the same material he used for this two-hour documentary. It’s a great subject – old versus new worlds in the wine trade. More importantly, it examines the ogre of globalisation and the threat it poses to local, handmade wines.
In the film, chief executives like Richard Sands of Constellation Brands, the world’s largest wine company and new owner of Mondavi, says: “We support differentiation through terroir more than the little guy”. Similarly, Jamie Odell, head of wine at Australian behemoth Foster’s, recognises “the need to develop a regional reputation”.
The old world guys have a different opinion. They feel terroir is being lost to an international style: too much winemaker intervention. “The influence of man is important, but he must not suppress or erase the terroir,” said Etienne de Montille, who runs Domaine Hubert de Montille in Volnay, Burgundy.
There are more arguments on the film, with Michael Broadbent (ex Sotheby’s) insisting that travelling winemakers like Michel Rolland impose their own style on wines rather than having terroir at the forefront of their minds. Rolland answer to that accusation was globalisation of taste is not true. “It’s impossible for wines from France, Argentina or the US to taste the same,” he said. Etienne de Montille was equally critical of Michael Broadbent: “His methods – micro-oxygenation, reverse osmosis, extraction, 200 per cent new oak – are not natural. He erases the terroir”.
Interesting though was the view of Sam Harrop MW, winemaking consultant to Marks & Spencer. He suggests the main concern should be balance “of all factors: alcohol, acidity, tannin, sugar fruit and aromatics. If the wine is balanced, by definition it is in tune with its terroir.”
Nossiter then is examining the top of the wine business, the pricey shelves most of us mere mortals never reach for. The problem is that none of them are made using old world methods – they stir in a bit of modern technology to improve the terroir and make the wine drinkable more quickly for today’s busy era when we don’t want to wait 30 years to drink it. Which all seems to defeat the point. He strangely, however, ignores Australia and New Zealand completely.
There are several mini-dramas: big conglomerates taking over smaller family farms, dueling ideologies, bright young upstarts, a battle for a village in France, a thousand year old name in Italy, and so on.
The idea that the world is shifting from family control to multinational corporations is not limited to the wine industry, but it’s certainly demonstrated vividly here. While this theme is interesting, it’s also conveyed quickly. Perhaps in a 10-hour TV series, Nossiter can get deeper into each aspect of the business. And while several people lament the loss of nature, dignity and tradition, we also know the world can never spin backwards.
l The film will be released soon on DVD
Wine of the Week
2003 Tsiakkas Chardonnay, Pelendri Winery Alcohol Volume 12%, Price approximately £4.60
I have often mentioned my admiration for this particular wine maker. Costas Tsiakkas, the ex-banker, belongs to the rare breed of winemakers who perceive winemaking as a passion and not as a business. The winery boasts one of the best cellars, full of French and American oak barrels. It is in a lovely setting at the entrance to Pelendri village, and while you admire mother Nature, you can also appreciate his wines.
The Chardonnay 2003 is classified as one of the best examples from this renowned internationally grape varietal. It has a medium intensity and straw yellow colour. It is perfumed and flavoured with ripe pears and juicy yellow apples. Some minerality graces the fleshy palate of apples and peaches, which paves a smooth path to the finish. The acidity on the palate is balanced. This is a refreshing wine with some elegance. Serve this wine at 10ºC. Asparagus and artichoke-based salads accompany this wine well as does seafood and poultry based on light creamy and lemony sauces.
