On the beaten track
Take a day or two to tour round some of the villages above Limassol
VOUNI is one of the few villages in Cyprus that has been solidly, and correctly conserved, with many listed buildings on show, along with protected examples of indigenous architecture. It is also home to the donkey sanctuary, which is well worth both a visit and a donation towards the upkeep of these beasts, all of whom can no longer be cared for by their former owners. The sanctuary is a great place to take the children (and grand children); they can have fun with a ride on a donkey and learn more about these noble, hard working beasts.
To get to Vouni (from the west) you need to get on the E601 or the B8, which begin at Erimi and Polemidhia. Just off the E601, take a detour just beyond Ayios Amvrosios (marvellous ecological winery here, and yes you can ‘try and buy’) and after about seven kilometres you will reach Vouni.
Just up the road from Vouni is Kilani, a ‘hip’ sort of place with many artists’ studios now in full production mode. There’s a small ecclesiastical museum with odd bits and bobs, but it’s worth checking out as there are some good examples of hand-crafted religious objects as well as some very attractive icons. This tiny museum can be found at the rear of the rather lack lustre modern church of Panayia Eleousa.
Drive up the valley for another kilometre and you will come to the 12th century church of Ayia Mavra; it’s all that remains of a much bigger monastery that was destroyed many years ago.
The key to the church is usually in the front door, so go inside and check out the mountain spring which burbles up from a cleft in the rough wall. Naturally, there is a legend attached to this spring and it’s centred on Mavra, who was in imminent danger of losing her virginity. She appealed to the Virgin to preserve her chastity and was duly swallowed up by the rocks. So, I’d hesitate to advise any drinking from this particular spring of life.
If you have the stamina, head off to Potamiou where there is the 16th century church of Ayia Marina and outside the village lies the remains of the Byzantine Ayios Mnason. Follow signposts to Vasa and on arrival I would advise immediate parking. Get out and go walk about for this is a truly delightful village, one that also boasts a superb winery owned by Pambos Argyrides. Here you can buy direct but only at weekends and by prior arrangement (Tel: 99 493030). Just make sure you don’t leave this village without at least one case of delicious chardonnay.
On the way to Potamiou, you may well have noticed the signs for Ariadne’s tavern, a wonderfully simple grill taverna. Speciality Sunday lunch, along with a cooked special every day and fresh off the grill, lamb chops, along with top notch stuffed vine leaves, accompanied by the best home made yoghurt I have tasted on the island. (Washed down with the Vasa winery’s cabernet sauvignon).
Suitably satiated, its time to take the (sober) tourist route to Omodhos. The church at the bottom of the main square is famous for being the resting place of artefacts purportedly taken from the crucifixion, with slivers of rope that bound Christ to the cross and other relics on display. It’s not a great church from a design point of view but if you admire fretwork, wood carving and carpentry skills, then make your way up to the upper storey gallery to admire the superb wood work, and then check out the wooden cell doors, and the carved ceiling. The village itself is a bit touristy for my liking but, again a walk around the narrow back streets, does offer discreet peeks into busy back yards, and tranquil gardens, with glimpses of the odd front room, so you get a feeling of what’s genuinely behind village life away from the tourists touts.
Past the church, and a few steps down to your left is a really nice costume jewellery shop, here the lady hand makes a lot of the fashionable bracelets and earrings, as well as having a good collection of kitsch brooches for sale.
On your way back to either Limasol or Paphos after driving through Malia, and Arsos, where you can stop off for coffee in the village square before heading towards the sea and your exit at Kouklia village.
