THE VIEW from the breezy northern Aegean, standing on Porto Carras’ terraced vineyards, is breathtaking. There are thousands of man-made and dry-farmed vineyards, which recall their hillside counterparts in Portugal’s River Douro. Yet, the location is Domaine Porto Carras on the Sithonian Peninsula of Halkidiki, northern Greece.
The Estate’s 475 acres are bordered by Mount Meliton, which stretches down to mingle with the crystal clear waters of Toroneo Bay – a famous holiday spot. These amphitheatric vineyards are some of the largest in Europe. In the sixties, ship-owner John Carras had the idea of reviving the area, planting also olive and citrus groves and creating two hotels, a golf course and a marina. The first vineyards were planted in 1967, with the first vintage available to the public in 1972. The Estate produces all of the wines from its own vineyards, therefore ensuring complete control over the harvest and vinification process. To date, the vineyards are planted with 14 varieties, both Greek and international. Of the Greek varieties, Malagouzia and Limnio are the most notable.
This is Greece’s largest and most famous wine estate. Professor Emile Peynaud was hired as consulting oenologist in the early 1970s and promptly handpicked Evanghelos Gerovasiliou, then a student at Bordeaux University, to manage the estate and make wine. During Paynaud’s tenure, Domaine Carras produced Bordeaux blends that had sufficient gloss and staying power to earn a prominent place in the world of wine, and by the late 1970s Carras had opened several export markets. Harrods became one of its prestigious listings and there was a lucrative niche development in Sweden.
The difficult economic conditions in Greece during the late eighties and early nineties resulted in financial hardship for the winery. As a result, production was dramatically reduced. Since December 1999, ownership of the vineyards and the resort complex has passed on to two building companies, Technical Olympic Group and Mohlos. Their hard work and commitment to re-establishing Carras wines in the wine market have come to fruition.
When the winery was built in 1970, it marked a turning point for the Greek wine industry. Its location, set in a valley, was chosen so that it would be invisible to the passer-by, both from the road and from the sea, thus protecting the natural beauty of the landscape. The selected position enables the avoiding of oxidation frequently caused by transportation of grapes. The ideal day for starting the harvest is also carefully chosen so that ripeness in terms of flavour always coincides with ripeness in terms of aroma. At the same time, in this state-of-the art winery, the air-conditioned cellar has authentic French oak barrels, which are replaced every year, ensuring ideal ageing conditions for the leading red wines. Best-known grape varieties vinified in the hilly areas are Assyrtiko, Tahiti, Malagouzia, Ugni Blanc Sauvignon Blanc and Rodhitis. Among the red grape varieties are the cosmopolitan Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cinsault, Limnio and Syrah.
Wine of the week
2002 Château Porto Carras Côtes de Meliton, Appellation d’Origine de Qualité Supérieure, Alcohol Volume 12.5% £10.35
An enduring VDQS red wine, from the slopes of Mt. Meliton. A wine made each year with artistry and expertise from the courtly Cabernet Sauvignon, the shy Cabernet Franc, the intractable Merlot and the ruby-red Limnio varieties, aged for 12 months in bran new oak.
Rich, deep blue, red colour with purple reflections. Unique bouquet, complex aromas with clear nose dominated by red fruits and vanilla. Velvety texture, delicate, smoky, with medium tannins and excellent quality woods rich and a long silky finish. Can age longer and served at 18º-19º with games and red meat. Try this grilled beef filet marinated with Dijon mustard.
Of the whites, the 2003 Malagouzia (£10.35) is the crème de la crème, with an intense bouquet, especially mint, round mouth with apricot and peach flavours.
For more information, contact Dionysos Wine and Spirits Cava, Tel: 25-879998 or the Ermes and Alphamega wine sections.
