IN THE world of winemaking there are those who are driven by fashion and those who know where they are going. Sergio Zenato is among the latter. The Zenato family has a long tradition in the Lombardy and Veneto regions of Italy, with cellars in San Benedetto di Lugana on Lake Garda.
The house of Zenato was the focus of yet another successful event organised by Victor Papadopoulos of La Maison du Vin at the Amathus Hotel in Paphos. Representing the Zenato family were Sergio Zenato’s wife Carla and daughter Nadia.
Sergio Zenato is a master wine blender and is driven by his passion for quality. His children Alberto and Nadia, who are responsible for marketing and public relations, administer the commercial side of the business. Although the name Zenato is synonymous with Amarone, Sergio Zenato also produces, as it was revealed at the tasting, white wines that are renowned for their clean and elegant character, and his reds for their exceptional depth balance and flavour.
Zenato has always believed in striving to fulfill the potential of each vineyard. Even before it became fashionable to think this way, he concentrated on getting the best out of Lugana and Corvina grapes. Today, this philosophy has been praised by the critics and rewarded with commercial success. He’d always thought that wines made from native grapes – Lugana – had more to them than other whites. His recipe for good wine has always been based on studying soil, climate and low yields above all. A recipe for success; keeping one step ahead of the market and following a well-planned path.
Lugana and Amarone, Trebbiano and Corvina, noble vines, traditional and modern at the same time, made by the Zenato family. The 2003 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie (£5.60) was first introduced at the tasting. The Zenatos purchase the grapes for this Pinot Grigio from local growers. Fresh and lively with plenty of lemony fruit, it’s perfect as an aperitif. However, we were all impressed with the 2003 Lugana San Benedetto (£5.90). The flagship wine, it is straw yellow in colour marked by greenish reflections. The flavour is persistent, velvety and full-bodied with scents of almonds and lemon peel. Slight traces of peach are detectable. Lugana is a white wine area at the southern end of Lake Garda, to the west of Bardolino. The 2001 Valpolicella Classico Superiore – value for money at £6.50 – is produced in Peschiera del Garda, on the southern slopes of Lake Garda. This delicious Valpolicella, with currant and minerally aromas and flavours, is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Sangiovese and Molinara grapes fermented in stainless steel and aged in oak. The 2001 Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore (£11.50) is deep, brooding red-purple, smoke-tinged cherry fruits, with nuances of liquorice and cough candy. Smooth texture on the palate deriving form the ripasso process packed with ripe bitter sweet fruit and smooth tannins. And finally Sansonina 2000 (£21.50) – Carla’s wine. The 18th century estate in the Sirmione area takes its name from Samson, the masculine hero whose strength came from his hair. Sansonina is a feminine wine, from Merlot grapes. Deep colour and rich tannins, with bitter black cherry and cloves on the palate. Velvety, smooth, compact and structured with pleasant plumy fruit and violet lift on the finish. For the connoisseurs with patience, age up to 10 years. And these are the highlights of the Zenato range, but one.
Wine of the Week
2000 Amarone della Valpolicella (£21.00) Corvina 80%, Rondinella 10%, Sangiovese 5% and Molinara 5%.
The best grapes from the area are carefully selected and placed on racks to dry until January at which time the grapes are pressed and the juice left in contact with skins for 21 days. The wine is aged for 30 moths before bottling.
Considered to be the king of the Veronese wines, this is a generous and pleasing award-winning wine. It has a ruby red colour with deep, ethereal bouquet of tobacco, vanilla and chocolate and dried fruit aromas. A rich, lingering and spicy palate with strong yet smooth and supple tannins with an array of cranberry, blueberry and mulberry. You may drink it now but is better to age for ten more years and served at 18º C with aged cheese, roast meats, and risotto with Amarone reduction sauces. Hannibal Lecter of Silence of the Lambs had his with fava beans.
