ETKO revamps its image and its quality
BEING in the hospitality industry, I know exactly the feelings when companies announce that they have achieved HAACP (Hazard Analysis, Critical Control Point) and ISO 9000:2000 (International Organisation for Standardisation) certification. Confidence, a sense of achievement, looking ahead to a bright future, and above all relief.
These same feelings were expressed by Mr Antonis Hadjipavlou, the chairman of ETKO winery, at speech in late September when he presented his certificates to the media. Mr. Hadjipavlou is the chairman of the 160-year-old winery ETKO, established in 1844.
Lately, the company has been trying to change its image from that of a mass production maker of plonk to quality winemakers. For this reason, it has created three regional wineries. In Limassol, the Olympus winery at Omodhos, and Olympos Hellas, which is situated in Tripoli in the Peloponnese, in Greece and makes appellation of origin wine from white Moschofilero and red Agiorgitico. The three wineries are designed and operate up the latest EU standard specifications.
However, as it has been proved in the past, modern wineries do not guarantee quality. Over the last few years, the company had its own oenologist, and hired consultants whose main task was to identify vineyards to plant both imported and indigenous grape varieties, bearing in mind the soil and microclimate that suits each variety. Therefore, other than Xynisteri and Mavro in the Omodhos area, we now have varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Chardonnay and Merlot.
ETKO believes that the indigenous grape varieties of Xynisteri and Mavro do not produce quality table wines, either for Cypriot or European palates. Hence, we have this huge investment on marketable and world-known grape varieties. With blending, the company believes it can produce better quality wines with the local grapes. The company has also purchased vineyards in the Ayios Ambrosios area and is now converting them to ecological production.
Now, we come to the HACCP and ISO certificates. ETKO are one of the pioneers in achieving this certification, which seeks to focus preventive and control measures on identified potential problems, whereas ISO concerns consistent rules of guidelines and technical specification. I am aware that soon other wineries will follow, as it is an EU regulation. The new face of ETKO is also now illustrated on their labels too. First, the Claret 62 is now called Cellar 62. The word Claret – the English description of fine Bordeaux wines – is prohibited for any wine outside the Bordeaux region. Other than the Cellar 62, the always reliable Shiraz and Grenache based Semeli (1999) is available, along with the Xynisteri based Nefeli and the medium dry Daphne. The varietals feature four grapes, with the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon and the recently tested 2003 Merlot (£4.60). This young purple red colour wine, with dark fruits and a touch of eucalyptus, a complex palate with green tannins. The 2003 Chardonnay (£3.90) is a young wine with overripe pineapple, guava and melon scents, acidic and refreshing grapefruit skin flavouring the linear palate.
Wine of the week
2003 Olympus Shiraz, ETKO
My wine of the week is the 2003 Shiraz from Olympus Winery at Omodhos (£4.90). The Shiraz grape vineyards are planted opposite this recently refurbished winery. Dark inky red, slightly sun-dried in character wrapped around a herbal core. Moreover, there is forest fruit and smoky sweet pepper notes – a result of six month ageing in oak barrels. On the palate there is a balanced acidity, a spectrum of spices and leather. Serve this wine at 17º C with spice flavoured grilled red meats especially lamb – preferably on charcoal, or beef served with green pepper sauce. Both Merlot and Shiraz suggest that the wines have a couple of years to evolve. Before you try these varietals, the bottles must be opened for half an hour; it makes a difference.
