BY THE time you read today’s article, the talk of the day will be all about the opening ceremony. Assuming, it will be successful and, above all, safe, we can toast to organisers with more Greek wine. As mentioned last week, our Olympic tour of wineries continues looking further afield from the main games venues in Athens. We move north to Thessaly.
Thessaly is a convenient stop on the way north to Makedonia from Athens. Though not brimming with wine production, it is home to several serious producers, any of whom are worth visiting. First, the Dougos winery (30 2410-620621). It is impossible not to fall in love with the Dougos family, their winery or their wines. For people traveling north towards Salonica, the winery is irresistibly convenient. It is literally just off the National Highway as it travels through the Tempe Gorge. A short, pleasant drive west off the Larissa ring road, the Karipidis winery (30-2410-623-187) produces some exciting wines from the international varieties. The owners are articulate and have built a visitable winery in the sleepy village of Vounena.
There is also the Katsaros winery (30-2410-536-811), where Dr Katsaros has built his reputation on his pioneering work in Greece with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. His winery, perched upon a mountainside above the village of Krania on lower Olympus, is one of a kind and a short drive up from the National Highway as it wends its way along the coast north of Tempe.
And then we are in northern Greece. Makedonia is brimming with wineries. The region has been well-organised for wine tourism for several years. Most of the wineries on our list are part of a collaborative called Wine Roads of Macedonia. The region is one of Greece’s most beautiful, though least travelled and features some of the country’s best regional cuisine.
A little off the beaten path, getting to Velevendos (from anywhere) is a half the fun. The winery of Voyatzis (30-2310-706.400) is located in an area, which few tourists are fortunate to find. This side of Greece is stunning in its own right. Yiannis Voyatzis (chief winemaker of the Boutari group) is one of the country’s most serious small-scale producers. An appointment should be made in advance, however. The city of Naousa next and Keimi and Betty Chrisohoou (30-23320-45080) have a wonderful winery replete with artifacts that bring Naousa’s long winemaking history alive. Just a few minutes walk from the town center, this is a visit not to miss. Visiting also the Melitzanis Brothers (30 23320 22 742) store is a view into Naousa’s past. This is how wine used to be sold in Greece. You feel transported by this authentic experience. Yiannis and Katerina Dalamaras (30 23320 26054) have both a retail shop and wonderful traditional winery. They are great hosts and their Naousa red has real nuance. Call the shop to see if a winery visit can be arranged. The ebullient Fountis (30 23320 25 197) family has a charming winery that was designed with wine tourism in mind. The wines are among the regions most interesting and the family has a taverna next door among Strantza’s bucolic fields. Finally Ktima Kyr-Yianni (30 23320 51 140). Yiannis Boutaris and sons have a magnificent estate just north of Naousa. The seriousness of the effort will be obvious to any visitor. As if that weren’t enough, the drive there is beautiful.
We move now to Goumenitsa and to Christos Aidarinis (30 23430 41 684) who makes great wines and has a well-conceived visitor center in his Goumenitsa winery. It is well worth the drive as well at Giannitsa to Ligas (30 23820 24 421). This small vintner is as charming as his wines and winery. You’ll be tempted to believe you’re relaxing in the French countryside. East now and Thessaloniki and Halkidiki. There are two ways to familiarize oneself with Anestis Babatzimopoulos (30 2310 519 705) wines. The storefront on the west side of Salonica is the easy way. Wines are on display there and it is convenient, if you’re on a tight schedule. Otherwise I recommend the pleasant drive north to Ossa where his new winery and distillery offer spectacular views and inspired landscapes. Kechris (30 2310 751.283). Its location just west of Salonica makes the most convenient stop for travelers on the Athens-Salonica route. Visitors can expect solid wines and a warm welcome from the hard-working and friendly Kechris family. A 20-minute drive southeast of Salonica gets you a visit at one of Greece’s most prestigious wineries – that of Gerovasiliou (30 23920 44567). If you are in the area, it is no-brainer. Tsantali (30 23990 61 394-8) is, of course a powerhouse. This makes for a great destination. Where else can you take the enormity of a large-scale operation, but slip low-production boutique wines? Their ouzo distillery is an added plus. All just 20 minutes southeast of Salonica.
Kavala area next, with Biblia Chora (30 25920 44974). For the serious oenofile, the pleasant drive to Biblia Chora is well worth the effort. This important producer – soon to be featured on this page – makes some of the region’s best wines and there are many good stops on the way from Salonica. In Drama the winery of Kosta Lazaridis (30 25210 82 348) that brought the Americans to their knees in the 1990s is still going strong. It is also one of the best-equipped facilities in the country for wine tourism. The other Lazaridis, Nicos (30 25210 36 616) is worth the short drive west of Adriani past the village of Agora. The winery offers great wines, professional hosts and great views. The hard working George Manolesakis and son (30 25210 82010) are putting themselves on the map. A new facility is in the works, but a visit to the existing one is well your while for a good look at a small scale, family run, winery. Finally, Techni Oinou (30 25210 83626). In a few short years these producers on the outskirts of Drama have made a serious name for themselves. Their well-designed winery was designed with tourists in mind and provides a pleasant environment for tasting and relaxing in the shade.
Santorini is one of Greece best known tourist destinations, but tourists are often surprised by the quality of wine they find there. I offer three destinations providing three uniquely different experiences. Antonis Heliopoulos (30 22860 81796 7) at Vedema resort is one of Greece’s most well conceived getaways. Antonis has also become an increasingly important wine producer. Even if you stay elsewhere, a trip to Vedema for dinner and a wine tasting is de rigeur. Paris Sigalas (0286 71644) of course, is Santorini’s artisan winemaker extraordinaire. His winery has a pleasant tasting room located as it is in the northeast corner of the island near Oia; it is the perfect escape from Santorini’s hectic tourist centers. And finally Santo Wines (30 22860 22596), Santorini’s forward-thinking co-operative. Conveniently located if you are heading almost anywhere, it has, in addition to good wine an abundance of local products for sale, and some of the best views on the island. If you have time visit also Argyrou and Boutari wineries.
Crete has always been popular with tourists. It’s the perfect destination for people who like to explore. Hop in a rental car and just drive anywhere. Outside of the obvious tourist centers the entire island is a no-miss adventure. The island is overflowing with wine of various qualities, but has begun to produce some of Greece’s best reds. The Olympics coincide with the beginning of the harvest on Crete, making winery visits very difficult for vintners. The Lyrarakis (30 2810 284 614) have a wonderful storefront, which is conveniently located in Heraclion, not far from the city’s main square. Well worth a visit to sample and buy the family’s charismatic wines. Nikolas Miliarakis (30 2810 741213). Minos wines in Peza is a winery in transition from bulk to serious wine. Its large facility in Peza has afforded sufficient room for a comfortably large and informative visitor center.
To Rhodes, and Emery (30 210 6844336), the leading quality producer, located in Embona, a pleasant drive from anywhere in Rhodes. The popular winery is well staffed and multi-lingual. Samos has really only one wine producer, the Samos Co-operative (30 22730 27 381) but what a producer it is for serious Muscat. There’s no way around the fact that Samos is one of Greece’s most beautiful islands. The island’s important role in the production of dessert Muscat is no secret. If you are there do not miss the Cooperative’s winery in Malagari. End of the tour to Kefalonia with the many charms, but wine is definitely the icing on the cake. Gentillini (30 26710 41 618) is a husband/wife team, Petros Markantonatos and Marianna Cosmetatos, along with winemaker Gabrielle Beamish. They have brought new life to this internationally respected winery in Minies. All three are articulate hosts, as is all of Greece during the Olympics.
