The word asparagus comes from the ancient Greeks, who used it to refer to all forms of tender shoots picked and eaten while very young. This delicate and delicious vegetable is a member of the Lily family and is packed full of vitamins, and is reassuringly also fat free, as well as being extremely low in calories, sodium and cholesterol, It also works as an effective antioxidant, and as a natural diuretic – recently, scientists also discovered that asparagus contains a factor that prevents small capillary blood vessels from rupturing. The Greeks also credited this veggie with the power to prevent dropsy, heal bee stings, cure toothache and, of course, it still retains its reputation as an aphrodisiac.
Certainly, that ever willing lady Madam Pompadour seemed to rely heavily on this particular quality in the asparagus when ever she had the urge. A special drink made from the vegetable would be given to her lovers prior to repairing to her bed chamber.
Louis the XIV just fancied the taste of the stuff, and to ensure that he had asparagus all year round he commissioned special green houses to be built at all his residences so he was never lacking his favourite delicacy. On a visit to Germany during the asparagus season, you will find every eaterie from the tiniest Brauhaus to the most elegant Weinrestaurants offering a ‘Spargelkapte’ — a special asparagus menu that may list 45 different varieties of the vegetable.
The Germans, like most Europeans, prefer the white asparagus, achieved by growing stalks under mounds of earth so the sun does not catch them and so stops the production of chlorophyll. The spears we buy in the supermarket are actually the shoots from an underground crown, and these crowns can keep producing these tasty shoots for as long as 30- 40- years.
I always think it’s a shame to do anything with early asparagus other than to steam it gently until the stalks are tender, and then serve with melted butter or hollandaise sauce. But when asparagus has been hanging around a shop for a while, then it’s good to devise another recipe, one that does not rely so heavily on the unique flavour of the shoots. Then it’s appropriate to make asparagus soup.
When buying look for stalks with tips that are dry, tight, and almost purple in colour. The thickness of the spears makes no difference in taste, but its best to choose spears of uniform size so they will cook evenly
Two of my absolute favourite ingredients make up this first recipe: – asparagus and Parmesan cheese.
Asparagus and Parmesan vinaigrette.
Makes eight portions.
Ingredients.
1.3kg of asparagus
125ml olive oil
60ml red wine vinegar
1tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp salt
45g parmesan cheese freshly grated
60g Parma ham or cooked ham chopped.
Method.
Hold the base of each asparagus stalk firmly and bend; the end will break off at a spot where it becomes to tough to eat. Discard ends; trim scales if stalks are gritty.
In 2-3cm of boiling water bring asparagus to the boil in deep 30cm frying pan.
Reduce heat to medium- low; simmer 5-10 minutes, just until tender then drain well.
Prepare vinaigrette in 33 by 20cm baking dish.
Whisk oil, vinegar, mustard, salt and 30g of the Parmesan cheese together.
Add hot asparagus to the vinaigrette;-turn to coat.
Serve at room temperature or cover and refrigerate, turning occasionally over two hours.
To serve; – spoon asparagus and vinaigrette onto serving platter.
Sprinkle with Parma ham and the remaining 15 g of parmesan cheese.
(This, believe me, is perfection on a plate)
Now for something a little different:
Sesame stir-fried asparagus.
(Four servings)
Ingredients.
450g asparagus, tough ends removed
1tbsp sesame seeds
1tbsp vegetable oil
½ tsp sesame oil
¼ tsp salt.
Method.
Cut asparagus diagonally into 2-3cm pieces
Toast the sesame seeds in 26cm frying pan over medium heat shaking pan frequently, give them 5 minutes, or until fragrant and pale golden.
Remove from the pan and heat up the vegetable oil and sesame oil in the same pan over a high heat until very hot.
Add asparagus and sprinkle with salt and cook, stirring constantly-5 minutes or until tender and crisp. To serve sprinkle with sesame seeds and enjoy!
You can also indulge in asparagus on toast with a smear of mayonnaise toast and lashings of black pepper.
As for the Hollandaise sauce, well here are two perfectly acceptable cheat’s ways of making it — first in a blender, then a totally mock version.
Cheat’s Hollandaise
Serves four.
Ingredients
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp lemon juice
Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper
100g (4oz) butter.
Method.
Place the egg yolks in blender together with lemon juice and seasoning. Cover and quickly blend. Heat butter until melted and almost boiling then draw off the heat.
Turn blender on at high speed and slowly pour the butter into the egg mixture.
Blend well until thick and fluffy, about 30 seconds,
Stand sauce over warm water until ready to use then pour over your asparagus.
Mock Hollandaise sauce
Serves four.
Ingredients
1x 75g 3 oz pack of full fat soft cheese (not processed stuff)
2 tbsp milk
1 egg yolk
1 ½ tsp lemon juice
Pinch of salt.
Blend cream cheese and milk, adding milk gradually.
Add egg yolk, lemon juice and salt — beat well.
Then cook over a low heat, stirring constantly until you get a really smooth consistency. Serve immediately over your hot cooked asparagus.
These methods may have the purists among us go into shock, but heck, it gets the job done and the sauces taste jolly good.
.
