MOUSSAKA is a truly noble dish. It’s also been around for a bit, with the original recipe first published in the 13th century Arabic cookbook known as the Baghdad Cookery Book.
Over the years, variations to the original recipe have been many, various and — sometimes, dare I say it — not so successful.
Sadly, visitors to Cyprus catering establishments in search of a juicy, tasty, digestible moussaka will be forced into a serious search mission to find a classic, value for money, home-cooked example.
My thanks go to several readers who emailed me with news of their favourite taverna or restaurant offering such a dish, and in the spirit of fair play I did visit all of the establishments recommended.
I found that although most managed to get the basics right there were several variations — some used onions or artichokes, some found potatoes more acceptable. But, alas, all but two failed when it came to the topping, which normally is a thick, creamy Béchamel sauce.
Indeed, one restaurant in Paphos proudly boasted that their moussaka was topped with Edam cheese. Neither I nor Gisela Fischer, a German friend on a visit here from Augsburg, disputed this claim as the evidence was right there in front of us.
Here was a moussaka that had been mugged by a suffocating coating of rubbery, tasteless cheese which Gisela, as a serious moussaka aficionado, agreed had all the allure of chewing on an inner tube.
Edam is not a cheese one would opt for as the topping for a fluffy moussaka. Mozzarella or Parmesan, yes, but no to Edam, please, especially when charged the princely sum of £5.20 for the dubious pleasure of a dish that had been cremated in the kitchen microwave.
Roddy at Ta Piatakia (the ‘little plates’ restaurant in Limassol) does not go for a bottom layer of potatoes, but always slips in a scratching of fresh nutmeg to the Béchamel. He also makes twice the normal amount of sauce with Parmesan cheese to give a really deep, fluffy topping.
He is also keen to concoct a more exciting and savoury mince filling, using all sorts of herbs and spices — and he pops in a middle layer of Béchamel sauce to make the dish even juicier.
Angela, a Cypriot friend, is a lady who lives up to her name, as she cooks like an angel. Her tip is always to dot the top of the Béchamel sauce with small knobs of butter, plus a sprinkling of breadcrumbs, before the freshly grated Parmesan is added.
Of course, strict traditionalists would shudder at the mention of any cheese atop a moussaka, but tastes do, thankfully, change and most of us enjoy this dish with a light dusting of Parmesan.
The other establishment which cares passionately about its home-made moussaka is the Anavargos Tavern on the outskirts of Paphos. Here one is guaranteed every time a truly tasty recipe (at only £4.45 per pot). It always comes out of the kitchen literally quivering, with its delicious topping, using the classic Béchamel but this time with the addition of some grated Anari cheese.
For those who fancy less of the rich Béchamel and want to try something a bit different, here is another tried and tested ‘new’ variation to this noble dish.
Moussaka
Serves six
Ingredients.
1kg aubergines, trimmed and cut into 5mm thick slices.
5tbsp olive oil
450g onions finely sliced
3 garlic cloves, crushed
700g lamb minced
2 level tbsp sun dried tomato paste
400g can chopped tomatoes.
1 cinnamon stick crushed slightly
2 bay leaves
1 level tbsp freshly chopped oregano plus sprigs to garnish
For the Topping
200g tub Greek yoghurt
1 large egg
50g freshly grated parmesan cheese
A little freshly grated nutmeg
75g feta cheese roughly crumbled.
Method
Pre heat the oven to 200C (180C fan oven, Gas mark 6)
Put aubergine slices on four baking sheets.
Brush each side with a little oil: season, roast for 35-40min turning halfway through.
Meanwhile, heat the rest of the oil in a large pan.
Add onions and cook over a low heat for 10min or until soft.
Add garlic and cook for 2min. Tip into a bowl while you cook the mince.
Put the mince in the pan and brown over a high heat.
Return the onions and garlic to the pan.
Add the tomato paste, chopped tomatoes, cinnamon, bay leaves and oregano.
Bring to the boil and season. Simmer half covered for 20min.
To make the topping, put the yoghurt, egg and half the Parmesan in a bowl
Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper and a little nutmeg, then mix everything together with a balloon whisk or wooden spoon until combined.
Put half the lamb in a 2 litre ovenproof dish.
Add half the aubergine, overlapping the slices where necessary.
Season well and repeat layers with remaining lamb and aubergine slices.
Top with feta; pour yoghurt mixture over and sprinkle with remaining parmesan.
Cook in oven for 35-40 min or until browned.
Allow to cool and rest for about ten minutes before serving with a garnish of oregano.
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